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In Italy Pinot Grigio is crisp and citrusy, but when the same grape is called Pinot Gris, it becomes a very different wine. Some of its finest examples are from Alsace, eastern France.
Steep slopes, abundant sunshine (the sunniest spot in all France) and the Vosges mountains all lend the region’s wines a pristine freshness, amazing intensity and purity of fruit.
This is a superb white from the Gisselbrecht family’s 350-year-old cellar, today run by brothers Philippe and Claude. The grapes are from an estate vineyard in Dambach, next door to the Frankstein Grand Cru. With granite soils and steep slopes, it produces fruit of power and intensity. Off dry, with rounded, lightly spiced stone fruit, it's great with fish pie or spicy Asian dishes.
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Over the centuries Alsace has been tossed between French and German ownership. Today, it is on the French side, producing exquisitely intense, superbly balanced, long flavoured wines. This Gewürz from Bott-Geyl is an absolute stunner.
