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Southern Burgundy’s Mâconnais has long been known for being a hotspot for good value but in the last decade its winemakers have proved that this goes hand in hand with remarkable quality too. They may not be able to put ‘Grand Cru’ on the label, but some of the bottles certainly warrant it. The Greuzards have been crafting superb wines at their Greffière estate for four generations now.
In fact there is evidence the property was making wine from 1585. Their top vineyard – La Roche Vineuse – is 12 hectares with vines 30 to 50-years-old. No wonder the fruit is so deliciously concentrated and long. Slow fermentation with lees stirring results in this rich complex style. Serve lightly chilled with white meats, risotto or a creamy fish dish.
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This fine Jura estate was founded in 1742 and, with the accumulated wisdom of nine generations, remains in the same family. They started out as farmers, with a few vines. Then in 1950, 7th-generation René Baud worked to restore the vineyards after the devastation of both two world wars and phylloxera. Since then, the four hectares has grown to 20 and the 9th generation, Bastien and Clementine, are running the domaine.
They are sustainable in their approach, gaining Terra Vitis status in 2014. Just over half of their production is Chardonnay, here from some of their oldest vines, planted in 1930. Fermentation and ageing in seasoned oak barrels lends a creamy weight and roundness to the apple-fresh fruit. Great with creamy sauced chicken.
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Bernard Moreau has been in charge of his small family domaine in the Mâconnais since 1982 and is now assisted by his son, Alex, as winemaker. It lies very close to a village called Chardonnay, just like the grape! For this white, they use fruit from their 60-year-old vines, planted on calcareous soils and with excellent sun exposure. This is the perfect formula for wine with depth and concentration.
Plus, 2022 whites are blessed with richness, body and ripeness, a generous year. Bernard tends his vines with the utmost care, using sustainable, eco-friendly methods. This results in a wine with a balance of creamy roundness, ripe pear, crisp minerality and finesse. Serve cellar cool with creamy sauced dishes to best enjoy its subtle flavour.
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Domaine de Bellene is the craftsmanship of Nicolas Potel, who learned at an early age from his renowned father, Gérard. He went on to gain experience in Australia and California. His father's early death meant the family estate had to be sold and Nicolas was left to build from nothing. At Bellene, Nicolas is both talented winemaker using estate fruit, and "haute-couture négociant", sourcing top-quality, old-vine grapes from individual growers.
His wines are "absolutely delicious" (Neal Martin), “in the class of the very best that Burgundy can produce,” wrote Jasper Morris MW. This wine is from densely planted vines in the Hautes Côtes. Wild yeast fermentation in oak, with 'malo' to lend creaminess, it combines a roundness with minerality.
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Crisp, appley and punctuated with a steely, mineral edge, Domaine de la Mandelière is a Chablis that justifies the region’s illustrious reputation. It’s the creation of Robert and Josette Nicolle, who carefully nurture their wines from bud break to bottle to achieve the most authentic expression of terroir. The Nicolle family have tended their vineyards on a ridge of limestone in the heart of the region for four generations.
The fruit is hand harvested and hand sorted in the vineyard, and that painstaking commitment to quality shines through in the character of their wines. You can expect a complex Chablis with aromas of stone fruit and apple with floral hints. Serve cool – but not cold – with fresh oysters, poached salmon or white meats.
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Jeff Carrel describes himself as an eclectic winemaker. He’s part of a new generation of winemakers, operating without a vineyard or a winery. Instead, he sources small parcels of grapes from growers, rents a corner of a cellar and focuses on making brilliant wines. Currently, Jeff makes around 40 wines this way, including Morillon (the southern French term for Chardonnay).
Following malolactic fermentation in barrel and the addition of grapes with a hint of noble rot, the 2022 vintage has, once again, produced a rich, Burgundy-style white. It delivers on creamy intensity, ripe peach fruit and layers of buttery complexity. Ideally serve this big-statement white with cured ham, guinea fowl and wild mushrooms or creamy fish pie. Serve cool.