Despite the then-ongoing pandemic, wildfires and a state-wide drought, California’s winemakers say the 2021 vintage will be one of the best in recent memory. Lower yields and smaller berries led to all varieties showing greater flavour concentration, resulting in deeper, richer fruit in this remarkable red. Doohickey is crafted exclusively for us at a top Californian winery which we’re not allowed to name. If their regular customers saw the price of this red, they’d be up in arms and we’d never secure this deal again.
The wine delivers mouthfuls of blackcurrant and bramble fruit mingling with notes of toasty oak. A perfect red to open when you have friends round, it’s especially good with lamb – from spicy tagine to moussaka.
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Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and delicious. Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome.
But with most shut in 2020, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red. And again, the following year. On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes.
From these they make a small range of award-winning wines. No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei comes into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.
A silky, smooth, easy red.
From a fourth-generation-owned Pauillac cellar, B de Fonbadet may fall under the humble Bordeaux label, but it’s intensity and complexity leave no doubt about its high-end quality. This 2019 has even won the Decanter’s esteemed Platinum medal.
From yet another quality Californian vintage, Bold Move 2021 marries three powerhouse grapes. Cabernet Sauvignon packs a punch with it’s deep, black-fruit aromas, brooding Petit Verdot adds great structure and tannins to the blend, while Petite Sirah contributes concentrated berry notes and extra body. Combined they produce this bold, intense fruit-filled red blend. A sure winner for any Californian wine lover – the previous vintage even won bronze at the San Francisco International Wine Competition.
Enjoy its rich, ripe blackcurrant and plums flavours, with baking spice layers, firm tannins and a long, sumptuous finish. A delicious red to sip on its own, or a great choice with roasted meats, vegetarian burgers, or spag bol.
When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.
60% of the wine is Garnacha from vines planted in 1958. They’re not as prolific these days, but the intensity of flavour in the grapes is impressive. The balance is Cabernet Sauvignon, which adds classic cassis character and structure to the spicy, raspberry-rich Garnacha. A rich, velvety-smooth, fragrant Spanish red with vanilla hints imparted by oak. A great choice with lamb or tapas.
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With four Trophies and 80+ Golds, Château La Clarière is clear proof that Castillon wines can surpass those of Grand Cru St-Émilion. From the exceptional 2020 vintage, this rich, velvety claret, packed with fruit, deserves its five Golds.
