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Fronsac's fine Château Dalem perches high on a hill, surrounded by its 14 hectares of sloping vineyards. It's an historic estate, with records dating back to 1610, that stayed in the same family until 1955. Michel Rullier then took it over and today it's run with great success by his descendant, Brigitte Rullier-Loussert. Its vineyards are nearly all planted to Merlot, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, and tended with meticulous care.
As you can see from critics' scores (92 points from James Suckling and 94 from Vertedevin), it is an admired claret and one that ages very well too. Matured in French oak (50% new), it has structure and length, but above all an appealing fruity depth. Perfect with roast meat or wild mushroom risotto.
Its vineyards are nearly all planted to Merlot, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, and tended with meticulous care. As you can see from critics' scores, it is an admired claret and one that ages very well too. Matured in French oak (50% new), it has structure and length, but above all an appealing depth of luscious fruit and spice – like Christmas in a glass! It’s a luxurious sipper, ideal with cheese after the Christmas feast. “Spiced plums and cocoa-dusted blueberries ... Succulent" (James Suckling, 94pts)
Formerly known as Capbern Gasqueton, this Cru Bourgeois Saint-Estèphe estate has been in the same family for 10 generations. It's the same family that owns 3ème Cru Classé Calon Ségur. It lies in one of the finest parts of the appellation, between Phelan Ségur and Meyney, and every aspect is given Grand Cru care. Hand picking of the 41 hectares of vines, with ageing in top-quality oak, all adds up to the exceptional quality.
This vintage has gathered many top scores from wine critics such as Jeb Dunnuck and James Suckling, who called it "full-bodied with a deep character". Two thirds Cabernet with almost the same in new oak, it has “gorgeous cassis, violets, classy oak, with beautiful tannins” (Jeb Dunnuck). One to cellar for a few years.
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Until 1997, Château Haut Brisson was an 8-hectare estate in the Vignonet section of Saint Emilion. New owner Peter Kwok was keen to expand its vineyards and the range of terroir, so began to buy up vine parcels to make it up to the 18 hectares it has today. Judging by today's scores and the quality of the wine, Kwok purchased wisely and quality has soared. Today it is under the ownership of Stephane Schinazi and continues its stellar projection, with Michel Rolland as consultant.
All its top grapes go into this wine (they no longer make La Réserve), ageing 30% of it in new French barriques, so as not to overwwhelm the fruit with oak notes. Now certified organic, with the aim of going biodynamic too, the 2020 is a magnificent wine.
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Château Pavie Macquin was founded by in the 19th century by Albert Macquin, the man credited for introducing grafted vines to France thus saving the country's vineyards from destruction by phylloxera.
In 2021, winemaker Nicolas Thienpont waited patiently for perfect ripeness, harvesting the grapes as late as October 19th. The resulting wine is a stunning expression of this exceptional vintage and terroir. Intense black and blue fruit aromas mingle with captivating floral notes of violets and iris. The palate is full-bodied and structured, with polished, tensile tannins that beautifully balance the wine's exuberant fruit. There is excellent drive and elegance through the long, compelling finish, suggesting this Pavie-Macquin will age gracefully for years to come. A profound Saint-Émilion that exemplifies the heights of this celebrated appellation.
94-95 points James Suckling
"Lots of blackberry and inky character to this year. Always refined and polished with lovely length and medium body. 79% merlot, 19% cabernet franc and 2% cabernet sauvignon." (6/2022)
93-95 points Wine Advocate
"Another success in this challenging year is the 2021 Pavie Macquin, a promising effort that offers up aromas of sweet berries, Indian spices, licorice and bay leaf. Medium to full-bodied, layered and incisive, it's a tensile, tightly wound wine that's concentrated and penetrating, concluding with a mineral finish. Its low pH profile means that this is always an estate that gains a lot from élevage, but even at this early stage, it's clear that this has excellent potential. (WK)" (4/2022)
94 points Decanter
"Bramble, coffee and caramel notes on the nose. Juicy and vibrant on the palate, this has a gentle coursing of strawberry and blackcurrant fruit with blackcurrant leaf giving a savoury, almost herbal edge, while the crushed stone and slate bring in minerality and salinity on the finish. Detailed and nuanced - I like the overall texture, there is grip and aromatic interest with density, chew and a gorgeous core of acidity that keeps things playful and joyous. Supremely alive and thriving on the palate with a persistence that doesn't let up. I love this and think it will be excellent after ageing. Tasted twice. (GH)" (3/2022)
Accolades:
Robert Parker 93-95/100
Bettane & Desseauve 95-96/100
Wine Spectator 92/100
J. Suckling 96/100
Vinous - A. Galloni 94+/100
The Wine Independent 92-94/100
Alexandre Ma 95-97/100
Vinous Neal Martin 93/100
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Lying close to Margaux's Châteaux Giscours and du Tertre, Château Cazauviel remains surprisingly under the radar. It was inherited by Régis Bernaleau from his father in 1978 and today remains in family hands. It is situated on the prized gravel soils of the Arsac plateau, which lends both an intensity and a finesse to the wine. This pretty claret is from a vintage struck by early April frosts – the most devastating for many years.
It reduced yields, but as Decanter wrote, "there are some excellent wines." Most, like Cazauviel 2017, are not long keepers, but makes delightful drinking now. Ideally open a couple of hours before serving and decant. It'll make a delicious glass with roast chicken with morels or a mushroom croustade.
This is one of those 'under-the-radar' regions I love to search out, home to the finest quality wines, but not so well-known. As Wine International says, "If it weren't for the [political] line dividing Castillon from Saint-Émilion, its wines would be twice the price. The hills are the same, the soil is the same, the exposure is the same." The estate has won over 150 awards, including the Paris Lauréat Prix d'Excellence – not once, but twice – and Decanter magazine calls it the "leading estate in the Côtes de Castillon". La Clarière is our flagship wine and absolutely no expense is spared. Low yields, careful hand-sorting, months ageing in the finest new French oak, and rigorous tasting ensure only the best parcels become La Clarière. Mostly Merlot, silky, elegant, and supple, with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon for structure, and slightly portioned Malbec and Cabernet Franc for balance. It's truly magnificent!