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From a fourth-generation-owned Pauillac cellar, B de Fonbadet may fall under the humble Bordeaux label, but it’s intensity and complexity leave no doubt about its high-end quality. This 2019 has even won the Decanter’s esteemed Platinum medal.
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From a family property, now run by the 9th generation, this 2016 offers exceptional value. A great vintage, lovely depth and ripeness to the low-yield fruit, with up to 18 months in barrel, this is a velvety, deep Bordeaux red.
When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.
Take a minute to read the 5-star online reviews for Cabalié. This one is typical: “When my time comes to shuffle off this mortal coil, this is the wine I want in that final glass. It is simply, utterly, indescribably fantastic.”
Its secret? It’s crafted by a master winemaker, Hervé Sabardeil, following the centuries-old style beloved of Roman centurions, who first made wine there. Raspberry-rich Grenache, with herby Syrah and Carignan, Cabalié has impressive concentration. That’s due to the maturity of the vines, most well over 50 years old. The tiny berries they produce give Cabalié extraordinarily rich, ripe flavours. Boasting 8 Golds in as many vintages, this much-loved red is warming solo or with hearty dishes.
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For Bordeaux with lots of smooth, ripe fruit appeal, choose Château Les Moutins. 2019 was a great vintage – well balanced with deliciously ripe fruit. Nearly-all Merlot, this velvety claret makes delightful drinking now.
The label's also been a favourite of the papacy since 1958, when Pope John XXII blessed Cuvée du Vatican. Their gorgeously rich and spicy Réserve Côtes du Rhône is a delicious way to experience this very fine estate at an excellent price. Look forward to red berry jam, tobacco, wood smoke and wild herb complexity. Superb.
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