Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and delicious. Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome.

But with most shut in 2020, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red. And again, the following year. On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes.

From these they make a small range of award-winning wines. No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei comes into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.

A silky, smooth, easy red.

Wine Enthusiast calls Amarone “one of the 15 icons in Italian wine”. They are certainly some of the most prized reds from Italy, made by the ancient tradition of sun drying grapes before fermentation. This gives them an amazing richness, a glorious combination of power and complexity that cellars well, too. No wonder they are prized the world over. This 2017 from the renowned Cantina Negrar is named after the 18th century poet Bartolomeo Lorenzi, whose epic poem celebrating rural life made Valpolicella wines famous. The grapes are from the ancient dry stone terraces of the cool Marano Valley, where they ripen slowly. They are then air dried for 120 days to intensify flavours. A superb bottle to enjoy now with hearty dishes or to cellar.

Oltrepo Pavese lies in southwest Lombardy, next to Piedmont, hence its former name, Old Piedmont. Castello di Cigognola is an impressive, 13th-century castle, lying high on a hill, overlooking the Scuropasso Valley, across to Emilia Romagna. No wonder, then, it was once a stronghold for feudal lords. Over the centuries, it has been a gathering place for politicians and philosophers and today it remains a tranquil spot. It is home to many artistic pursuits, including great wine. Gabriele Moratti is in charge today. Sustainably tended, the vineyards are in the process of organic conversion. Using all Barbera from their 30-year-old La Maga vineyard, the wine had a year's ageing in small barrels. A very fine red. Open early and decant, or age.

We've worked closely with the Masi family in Tuscany's superb Rufina district for 30 years now, first with Renzo and now with his son, Paolo. They are like family. In fact, you may well have met Paolo and his wife Anna Rita at our wine shows. They come every year. Paolo took over the family estate in 1990 having passed his wine studies top of the class. And that talent shows in every one of his wines. Their beautiful property lies high on a hill overlooking the Argomenna valley – it's a prime spot for Sangiovese, placed on a par with Chianti Classico since the 18th century. One of his wines even won '3rd Best Wine of Italy' in 2020. Enjoy the cherry fruit and silky texture of his great-value Chianti - ideal with chicken or pasta.

Luca Maroni 99pts！

Top winemaker Andrea Bernardini has discovered just how to get the most from the superb Nero di Troia grape. The result is the deliciously dark, velvety Corsiero. No need to blend Nero di Troia with softer varieties – gently pressed and carefully vinified, it makes a seductive, deeply flavoured, fruit-rich red. Nero di Troia is named after the town of Troia in northern Puglia, said to have been founded by Greek hero Diomedes, famous for helping to defeat the city of Troy in Asia Minor (yes, the grape really is that old!). Just outside Troia, the story goes, Diomedes planted vine cuttings named Nero after the dark colour of the grape skins and the deep-hued wine. Rich, warming Corsiero is perfect with rich pasta dishes, game or hearty stew.