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Rioja is Spain’s “most important region” (Hugh Johnson), and its majestic Gran Reservas are the pinnacle of its great wines. Altos R 2018 is Jean-Marc Sauboua’s sumptuous flagship wine, made with high-altitude grapes from ancient vines in Grand Cru Bordeaux style. Altos de Bergasa 2017 is from the family-owned Bodegas La Eralta. All Tempranillo, layered with luscious plum and creamy oak, it’s rich and elegant. And the glorious Finca La Selva 2016 is from Bodegas La Emperatriz, one of Rioja's finest estates. At 10 years old its drinking beautifully now. Open early to give them a kiss of oxygen and let their seductive flavours unfurl, then enjoy them with your finest roast meats.