Château de Birot is an elegant, 17th-century property with vineyards perched on a high plateau looking down on the Garonne river and across to famous Sauternes. Until a few years ago, it belonged to the renowned Castéja family. They sold it and the new owners have been working hard, updating the estate. In the cellar, they discovered a forgotten batch of château wine from 2007.
Despite its 17 years’ age, it’s still tasting delicious, complex and long. It’s Merlot dominated from estate vineyards in the superior Premières Côtes, with a little of both Cabernets. After 17 years of maturing in the cellars, it has developed some sediment in bottle. A good sign. Stand the bottle upright for a few hours and carefully decant just before serving.
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Until 1997, Château Haut Brisson was an 8-hectare estate in the Vignonet section of Saint Emilion. New owner Peter Kwok was keen to expand its vineyards and the range of terroir, so began to buy up vine parcels to make it up to the 18 hectares it has today. Judging by today's scores and the quality of the wine, Kwok purchased wisely and quality has soared. Today it is under the ownership of Stephane Schinazi and continues its stellar projection, with Michel Rolland as consultant.
All its top grapes go into this wine (they no longer make La Réserve), ageing 30% of it in new French barriques, so as not to overwwhelm the fruit with oak notes. Now certified organic, with the aim of going biodynamic too, the 2020 is a magnificent wine.
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Château Pavie Macquin was founded by in the 19th century by Albert Macquin, the man credited for introducing grafted vines to France thus saving the country's vineyards from destruction by phylloxera.
In 2021, winemaker Nicolas Thienpont waited patiently for perfect ripeness, harvesting the grapes as late as October 19th. The resulting wine is a stunning expression of this exceptional vintage and terroir. Intense black and blue fruit aromas mingle with captivating floral notes of violets and iris. The palate is full-bodied and structured, with polished, tensile tannins that beautifully balance the wine's exuberant fruit. There is excellent drive and elegance through the long, compelling finish, suggesting this Pavie-Macquin will age gracefully for years to come. A profound Saint-Émilion that exemplifies the heights of this celebrated appellation.
94-95 points James Suckling
"Lots of blackberry and inky character to this year. Always refined and polished with lovely length and medium body. 79% merlot, 19% cabernet franc and 2% cabernet sauvignon." (6/2022)
93-95 points Wine Advocate
"Another success in this challenging year is the 2021 Pavie Macquin, a promising effort that offers up aromas of sweet berries, Indian spices, licorice and bay leaf. Medium to full-bodied, layered and incisive, it's a tensile, tightly wound wine that's concentrated and penetrating, concluding with a mineral finish. Its low pH profile means that this is always an estate that gains a lot from élevage, but even at this early stage, it's clear that this has excellent potential. (WK)" (4/2022)
94 points Decanter
"Bramble, coffee and caramel notes on the nose. Juicy and vibrant on the palate, this has a gentle coursing of strawberry and blackcurrant fruit with blackcurrant leaf giving a savoury, almost herbal edge, while the crushed stone and slate bring in minerality and salinity on the finish. Detailed and nuanced - I like the overall texture, there is grip and aromatic interest with density, chew and a gorgeous core of acidity that keeps things playful and joyous. Supremely alive and thriving on the palate with a persistence that doesn't let up. I love this and think it will be excellent after ageing. Tasted twice. (GH)" (3/2022)
Accolades:
Robert Parker 93-95/100
Bettane & Desseauve 95-96/100
Wine Spectator 92/100
J. Suckling 96/100
Vinous - A. Galloni 94+/100
The Wine Independent 92-94/100
Alexandre Ma 95-97/100
Vinous Neal Martin 93/100
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Castillon is a tucked-away Right Bank Bordeaux appellation that, for too long, has lived in the shadow of its famous neighbour, Saint-Emilion. The two regions share the same soils, grapes and climate and the best Castillon wines certainly stand scrutiny next to the Grands Crus of the famous one. The upside is that claret lovers can still find Castillon wines at exceptionally good prices.
Château Joanin came into the Bécot family in 2001. It has the highest vineyards in all Castillon, in the lieu-dit of Joanin. Juliette Bécot is today in charge and, with the renowned Bordeaux winemaker Thomas Duclos as consultant, it’s clear they are aiming high. Merlot with Cabernet Franc, aged 50% in new oak, this is a rich red. Open early and decant.
