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From a fourth-generation-owned Pauillac cellar, B de Fonbadet may fall under the humble Bordeaux label, but it’s intensity and complexity leave no doubt about its high-end quality. This 2019 has even won the Decanter’s esteemed Platinum medal.
When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.
Its vineyards are nearly all planted to Merlot, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, and tended with meticulous care. As you can see from critics' scores, it is an admired claret and one that ages very well too. Matured in French oak (50% new), it has structure and length, but above all an appealing depth of luscious fruit and spice – like Christmas in a glass! It’s a luxurious sipper, ideal with cheese after the Christmas feast. “Spiced plums and cocoa-dusted blueberries ... Succulent" (James Suckling, 94pts)
Castillon's limestone plateau is the "seamless" extension of the fabled Saint-Émilion (Oz Clarke), and these days any vineyard in the area that comes up for sale is snapped up by big Bordeaux names. They've finally latched on to the fact that little Castillon produces wines just as good as its grand neighbour! We were very lucky to get Colombe when we did, and we are excited to share its majestic wines with you. Like La Clarière, it's a silky Merlot-rich blend, and aged only briefly in oak, so it's fruitrich and supple and drinking beautifully now. It's a regular Gold-medal winner (11 Golds in the last five vintages) and is a must for any fine Bordeaux fan.
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For Bordeaux with lots of smooth, ripe fruit appeal, choose Château Les Moutins. 2019 was a great vintage – well balanced with deliciously ripe fruit. Nearly-all Merlot, this velvety claret makes delightful drinking now.
