Bordeaux-born Jean-Marc Sauboua has been our Trophy-winning winemaker at Bordeaux’s Château La Clarière for many years. In 2006, he decided to start a winery of his own and, with Spanish blood, decided Rioja was his destination. His aim: to make a Grand Cru of Rioja. He has no vineyards but works with the same growers he has since the start. The mature vines lie above 700 metres, the highest in Rioja, to ensure an elegant, modern style. He's won well 300 Golds since 2006, as well as Trophies for Winery of the Year, Rioja of the Year and Best Spanish Red over £10. 2021 was classed a very good vintage. High up where Altos lies, it's always cool, so ripening is slow, and wines are fresh. Aged a year in oak, this elegant red is best decanted.
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It ended up being considerably longer than intended, but all's well that ends well, because 10 years later it's proved to be absolutely stunning – a silky, velvety luxury wine. A great choice with lamb.
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Next door to Rioja, Navarra has always been less traditional. Its winemakers were some of the first to break rank and grow non-traditional Spanish grapes. A daring move, but one celebrated now – Navarra Cabernet continues to impress.
This mellow 2017 comes from the 65-year-old Señoria de Sarria bodega, an estate highly regarded throughout the world which lies in Puente La Reina. The fruit that went into this wine usually goes into their flagship Reserva Especial, but winemaker Milagros Rodriguez put some aside to make this exciting blend.
Powerful Cabernet Sauvignon with silky old-vine Graciano, aged two years in barrel and another four years in bottle, this is a magnificent, mellow red, packed with dark fruits and sweet spice. It needs time to open up, so decant if you can, and then serve with your finest roast lamb.
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It's made at an ancient monastery-turned-winery on the famous Camino de Santiago - the pilgrim's way. Dark, smoky berry with toasty oak.
Right in the shadow of neighbouring Rioja, Navarra is a much neglected region. But for those in the know, it "produces wines in many cases that are superior to its more famous neighbour" (The Times). This cracking Crianza is from the Irache monastery, founded centuries back by the King of Spain as a hospital to tend pilgrims on the dusty Camino de Santiago trail.
The monks today have gone and instead, behind the thick walls, is an impressive winery. There, pilgrims are still revived the ancient way with a scallop shell of wine from the famous fountain. They don't, however, get the good stuff - the Fuente de Irache Crianza. That is prized by the locals and has to be purchased! And, just for the first time, it's escaped the borders of Spain.
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