This fine Jura estate was founded in 1742 and, with the accumulated wisdom of nine generations, remains in the same family. They started out as farmers, with a few vines. Then in 1950, 7th-generation René Baud worked to restore the vineyards after the devastation of both two world wars and phylloxera. Since then, the four hectares has grown to 20 and the 9th generation, Bastien and Clementine, are running the domaine.

They are sustainable in their approach, gaining Terra Vitis status in 2014. Just over half of their production is Chardonnay, here from some of their oldest vines, planted in 1930. Fermentation and ageing in seasoned oak barrels lends a creamy weight and roundness to the apple-fresh fruit. Great with creamy sauced chicken.

Bernard Moreau has been in charge of his small family domaine in the Mâconnais since 1982 and is now assisted by his son, Alex, as winemaker. It lies very close to a village called Chardonnay, just like the grape! For this white, they use fruit from their 60-year-old vines, planted on calcareous soils and with excellent sun exposure. This is the perfect formula for wine with depth and concentration.

Plus, 2022 whites are blessed with richness, body and ripeness, a generous year. Bernard tends his vines with the utmost care, using sustainable, eco-friendly methods. This results in a wine with a balance of creamy roundness, ripe pear, crisp minerality and finesse. Serve cellar cool with creamy sauced dishes to best enjoy its subtle flavour.

Domaine de Bellene is the craftsmanship of Nicolas Potel, who learned at an early age from his renowned father, Gérard. He went on to gain experience in Australia and California. His father's early death meant the family estate had to be sold and Nicolas was left to build from nothing. At Bellene, Nicolas is both talented winemaker using estate fruit, and "haute-couture négociant", sourcing top-quality, old-vine grapes from individual growers.

His wines are "absolutely delicious" (Neal Martin), “in the class of the very best that Burgundy can produce,” wrote Jasper Morris MW. This wine is from densely planted vines in the Hautes Côtes. Wild yeast fermentation in oak, with 'malo' to lend creaminess, it combines a roundness with minerality.

Gascony used to be a one-trick pony, making the fine spirit of Armagnac. The market for that dropped dramatically 30 years ago, and growers had to search for another use for their grapes. They discovered that their Atlantic influenced climate was ideal for producing crisp, fruity whites. Good value too. Domaine de Mouchan, on the edge of the Landes de Gascony forest, has been the pride and joy of the Braisant family since 1949.

They have 58 hectares of vines growing local heroes Colombard, Ugni Blanc, Gros Manseng, even the red grape Tannat, plus Sauvignon and Chardonnay. They still produce eau de vie Armagnac, but also bright crisp, fruit driven whites like this gem. Chill down, it makes a delightful apéritif or partner to lighter dishes.

Since 1980, Jacky Gilson has been a grower and winemaker in the tiny, forgotten Burgundy region of Saint-Bris. In fact, the appellation was only created in 2003. It lies just 10 miles west of Chablis and is the only one permitted to use Sauvignon Blanc in its wines. Jacky himself grows both Sauvignon and Aligoté in his 40 hectares of vines, specialising in tantalisingly fresh, pure, crisp whites.

Hard work in the vineyard and minimal intervention in the cellar makes for very pure fruit whites, big on aromatics and with a core of freshness. Aged on its lees for six months, it has roundness too. Chill and enjoy as an apéritif, with garlicky snails or grilled fish. And from such an exceptional vintage, there is no rush with this wine.

Wine International magazine decreed, “the revival of Muscadet is coming from growers like Gadais”, a 4th-generation estate, run today by father and son, Christophe and Pierre-Henri Gadais. It was founded in 1952 by Louis Gadais – one of the first winemakers in Nantes to bottle his own wines (most was sold to merchants in bulk). La Grande Réserve du Moulin is their top cuvée, using the best bunches of Melon de Bourgogne (the only grape permitted in Muscadet) from their vineyards. It’s a fine white aged sur lie, meaning it’s left for months on its fine lees to add subtle creamy complexity to the floral apple and pear fruit. 2023 was an exceptional vintage for Muscadet, as grapes were picked during the September heatwave. An ace seafood white.