Bordeaux's Côtes de Bourg and Blaye are renowned for classy reds. But our Trophy-winning winemaker Jean-Marc Sauboua has never been impressed by rules, so here's he's championing the regions' white grapes. Zesty fresh and lemony.
Winemaker Jean-Marc Sauboua has made wine all over the world. He's won loads of prizes too. But Bordeaux was where he was born and raised and where he's searched out the grapes for this snappy fresh white. He's worked with an award-winning ecological cellar on Bordeaux's Right Bank, Les Vignerons de Tutiac in the Côtes de Bordeaux. This is where you'll find some excellent clarets, but Jean-Marc was out to prove that white grapes could perform just as well. It's pure Sauvignon Blanc, taken from a variety of vineyards in both Côtes de Bourg and Blaye, each parcel contributing a different character to the wine. Bright, lemony and intense, it's an elegant white, as you'd expect from Bordeaux. Chill and serve with panfried white fish or solo.
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For a bright, fresh Bordeaux Sauvignon, you won't beat this eight-Golds 2020 from Jean Gueridon. It's old vines with meticulous care, that give it such intensity and freshness, with a light floral touch to the citrusy fruit.
Jean Gueridon is the proud owner and winemaker of Château Les Moutins in the beautiful rolling hills of Bordeaux's Entre-Deux-Mers. Jean bought the estate in 1995 and has been upping the quality every year since. On his extensive vineyards of clay and limestone, he grows mostly Sauvignon Blanc, with a touch of Sémillon, on vines that are mostly 40 years old.
No wonder, then, the concentration in the wine is so good. It certainly bowled over judges in eight competitions, winning Gold every time. With three months ageing on its lees, the wine has lovely texture and roundness, with a creamy note to the bright citrus and grassy fruit and lift of blossom. Chilled down, it's a cracker on its own, or with seafood or goat's cheese soufflé.
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Reuilly is a real gem for lovers of classic Loire Sauvignon. It offers the dazzling mineral finesse of nearby Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, but its wines come at a more affordable price. It's a bit of a rescue story, in fact. In the 1970s, its wines almost disappeared and the little that was produced was only enjoyed locally. Enter Claude Lafond – the saviour of Reuilly. He encouraged the planting of vines, established a shared winemaking facility for all Reuilly producers, and built an impressive, modern winery at Domaine Claude Lafond.
Now run by his daughter, Nathalie, the domaine is farmed organically and continues to go from strength to strength – just like Reuilly itself. La Raie is crisp and elegant. Ideal with goat's cheese.
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Wine International magazine decreed, “the revival of Muscadet is coming from growers like Gadais”, a 4th-generation estate, run today by father and son, Christophe and Pierre-Henri Gadais. It was founded in 1952 by Louis Gadais – one of the first winemakers in Nantes to bottle his own wines (most was sold to merchants in bulk). La Grande Réserve du Moulin is their top cuvée, using the best bunches of Melon de Bourgogne (the only grape permitted in Muscadet) from their vineyards. It’s a fine white aged sur lie, meaning it’s left for months on its fine lees to add subtle creamy complexity to the floral apple and pear fruit. 2023 was an exceptional vintage for Muscadet, as grapes were picked during the September heatwave. An ace seafood white.
Our Languedoc buyer, Mark Hoddy, was in Corbières's Fabrezan cellar, tasting through the vintage. One white stood way out, so good, he insisted on visiting the grower. The upshot is this glorious, rich oaked white with ripe peach freshness.
One of Le Chai's most prized whites, La Voûte is the team work of winemaker Mark Hoddy and a meticulous grower in the Limoux, Bruno Bouché. Mark's aim with this wine is to make a rich, yet mineral-fresh Burgundy-style wine at an affordable price.
He knows exactly where to source the best grapes each vintage – Bruno Bouché's Astruc vineyard in Limoux Océanique, where the vines, planted at 300 metres, benefit from both the cooling Atlantic and the warmth of the Med. It results in intense ripe fruit with excellent freshness. After careful pressing the juice is put into new barrels to ferment slowly. A further year’s ageing in oak, with lees stirring, lends a creamy texture to the peachy lemon fruit. Serve cool with creamy sauced chicken.
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