When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.
Its vineyards are nearly all planted to Merlot, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, and tended with meticulous care. As you can see from critics' scores, it is an admired claret and one that ages very well too. Matured in French oak (50% new), it has structure and length, but above all an appealing depth of luscious fruit and spice – like Christmas in a glass! It’s a luxurious sipper, ideal with cheese after the Christmas feast. “Spiced plums and cocoa-dusted blueberries ... Succulent" (James Suckling, 94pts)
Fine Bordeaux can be expensive, but if you know where to look, you can find smaller estate wines of star quality at an extraordinarily good price. Taste for yourself here!
Château du Gazin is a family-owned château located on the famous Right Bank near Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. It was established in 1532, complete with a castle and dovecote, which showed its prestige. It has been owned for the last 80 years by the Robert family, who have once again built it into a prestigious estate.
Their lovely Château du Gazin Bordeaux comes from vineyards in Canon-Fronsac AOC, an appellation with clay-limestone soils similar to those of Saint-Émilion, renowned for its big, full-bodied reds. A lavish blend of velvety, plummy Merlot with red berry Cabernet Franc and inky Malbec, it has delicious aromas of black fruit, plums and cherries, and a woody tobacco note. The palate is smooth and textured, the luscious fruit and fine tannins all in beautiful balance. It’s a seamless, luxury wine with a decadently long finish … decant and serve with your finest roast meats.
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Until 1997, Château Haut Brisson was an 8-hectare estate in the Vignonet section of Saint Emilion. New owner Peter Kwok was keen to expand its vineyards and the range of terroir, so began to buy up vine parcels to make it up to the 18 hectares it has today. Judging by today's scores and the quality of the wine, Kwok purchased wisely and quality has soared. Today it is under the ownership of Stephane Schinazi and continues its stellar projection, with Michel Rolland as consultant.
All its top grapes go into this wine (they no longer make La Réserve), ageing 30% of it in new French barriques, so as not to overwwhelm the fruit with oak notes. Now certified organic, with the aim of going biodynamic too, the 2020 is a magnificent wine.
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