Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and delicious. Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome.

But with most shut in 2020, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red. And again, the following year. On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes.

From these they make a small range of award-winning wines. No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei comes into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.

A silky, smooth, easy red.

Top Soave is a revelation – it offers delicately nuanced fruit, creamy body and stony freshness that enable the wines to age gracefully. You find all this and more in this sensational white from local star winemaker Antonio Fattori. Wine Advocate says “his white Soave expressions are the true standouts”. He searches out Garganega grapes from the slopes of Monte Calvarina, the volcanic soils of which lend a bright minerality to the wine. Hand picking is as essential on these steep slopes as it is for quality, while lees stirring in old oak vats lends a creamy roundness and texture to this terrific wine. Delicate apricot with wild herb notes of sage make this an exciting white. Gently chill and serve with fine white meat or fish dishes.

Il Brutto comes from Puglia, home to wines with "undreamed-of character and potential" (Parker). The fruit comes from tiny plots of century-old Negroamaro and Primitivo vines – heirlooms handed down through generations.

These gnarled, twisted vines may be ugly ('brutto'), but they produce absolutely incredible grapes. Unfortunately, without a big budget to promote or make the wines, these amazing grapes were being sold off at a very low price. The growers were struggling, and property developers were circling. Those heirloom vineyards were very close to being sold off, the precious vines ripped up and bulldozed!

Angelo is a champion of the Puglia region, and he established his award-winning Cantine Due Palme cellar in the 1980s to help save the region's traditions and growers just like these ones. Recognising the quality of these old vines and their precious fruit, he enabled the vineyards to be saved. This sensational Double Gold, two-time 90pt (one from Italy's top critic Luca Maroni) Il Brutto Negroamaro Primitivo 2021 – a characteristically warming southern Italian red with a wealth of flavour.

"Attractive nose of bilberries, redcurrants, smoky and spicy notes and a touch of coffee. Full-bodied, lively and quite dense on the palate, restating its flamboyant flavors over a backdrop of well-judged oak" (Gilbert & Gaillard). One taste will transport you to southern Italy … you can almost feel the Italian sun. It's so good! Serve this treasured red with your finest roast meats or a platter of antipasti.

Northern Italian Pinot Grigio tends to be a stony fresh, subtle fruit white. That's true of Il Pino, but the wine has just a little bit more, too. Riper orchard fruit, with citrus freshness and it’s always good value. It comes from the high-altitude Adige Valley, just inland from Venice and home to some of the best quality Pinot Grigio in Italy. Plentiful sunshine and cooling mountain breezes together ensure healthy, ripe grapes with excellent aromatics.

Deliciously fresh and thirst quenching, this wine displays crisp lemon and grapefruit flavours, white stone fruit and a minerally edge. It’s a ‘drink anytime’ wine, but perhaps best enjoyed as an aperitivo or with grilled white fish, prawn or spring vegetable risotto or leafy summer salads.