Since their wines first appeared in 2004, Château Vartely has established itself as one of Moldova’s top wineries. The team controls 300 hectares of vines grown in ideal conditions and soils, very similar to the best of Bordeaux. Most are naturally organic too – winds blow hard and chase away any disease. Glowing online reviews every vintage prove that UK wine lovers have given this estate their backing. From grape harvesting to bottling, each step takes place under the watchful eye of Arcadie Fosnea, ‘Moldovan Winemaker of the Year 2014' and his deputy, Valentin Vrancean. Pristine, handpicked Pinot Grigio, cool fermented, the wine bursts forth with bright orchard fruit and zesty lemon notes. Ideal with lighter dishes or solo.
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Pinot Grigio has staged something of a coup in fridge doors and on dining tables in recent years. Gorgeously fruity, well-priced examples like our Il Papavero are rare, however. The wine is from Scipione Giuliani, who searches throughout Italy to find the finest parcels of grapes, usually blending them to get the perfect balance in a wine. For this Pinot Grigio, however, he was so taken with the fruit from the high hills of Sicily, with its idyllic sunshine and sea breezes, there was no need to look elsewhere.
Il Papavero is mouthwatering stuff, a moreish mix of pear and citrus flavours with both ripeness and bracing freshness thanks to the coastal cooled location of the vines. Pure delight on its own or with white meats or risotto.
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