Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and delicious. Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome.

But with most shut in 2020, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red. And again, the following year. On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes.

From these they make a small range of award-winning wines. No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei comes into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.

A silky, smooth, easy red.

The sun shone on Casanova di Neri in 2016, both literally and metaphorically. Wine Advocate described this vintage as having "many excellent wines to choose from". They are great keepers, legendary in fact. An impressive 94-point Brunello.

Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy's most magnificent reds, collectors' wines that can age for decades. This is a fine release from Casanova di Neri. A favourite of critics, the estate was founded in 1971 by Giacomo's father, Giovanni, producing his first wine in 1978. Since then they have bought small parcels of top quality vines. Giacomo took over in 1991 and is one of the few to achieve a perfect 100 point rating from both Wine Advocate and James Suckling. This Brunello has been made traditionally, with 40 months ageing in large, old oak casks to lend notes of cedar, leather and spice to the intense red fruit character – all held together with fine tannins. Open early and decant. Superb with steak or duck breast.

For lovers of Tuscany's ethereal Brunello di Montalcino wines, Rosso di Montalcino is a superb and more affordable alternative. It's wines don't quite last the decades of Brunello, but then sometimes you can't wait that long. This glorious pure Sangiovese is from Giacomo Neri, a winemaker renowned for his remarkable Brunellos, two of which have scored a perfect 100 points. His father founded the estate in 1971, realising the huge potential of the area's soil and climate. He passed the property to his son in 1991, who has taken excellence another step even higher, extending the vineyards, now 63 hectares, and buying up some remarkable single vineyards too. Decant this red an hour before serving with rich red meat dishes.

All biodynamically grown in prized Maremma, it's "a bright and articulate entry-level wine from this top-level estate" (Wine Advocate).