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With four Trophies and 80+ Golds, Château La Clarière is clear proof that Castillon wines can surpass those of Grand Cru St-Émilion. From the exceptional 2020 vintage, this rich, velvety claret, packed with fruit, deserves its five Golds.
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When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.
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Corbières is one of the best-known regions of southern France, adored for its characterful, robust reds, laced with dark fruit, wild herb and tobacco notes. This is a terrific find from the Terre d'Expression cellar in Fabrezan. It's a cooperative cellar, that works with its growers to gain exceptional quality grapes. All the fruit for Villa Pech Fourcat comes from a single estate in Boutenac, the only village in Corbières which may be named on the label.
Its wines are supreme thanks to very stony soils, hot dry summers and cooling winds. Vines for this red are, on average, 65 years old and very low yielding, which only adds to the power and intensity of this fabulous wine. For drinking now, open a couple of hours beforehand and decant.
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Jeff Carrel describes himself as an eclectic winemaker. He’s part of a new generation of winemakers, operating without a vineyard or a winery. Instead, he sources small parcels of grapes from growers, rents a corner of a cellar and focuses on making brilliant wines. Currently, Jeff makes around 40 wines this way, including Morillon (the southern French term for Chardonnay).
Following malolactic fermentation in barrel and the addition of grapes with a hint of noble rot, the 2022 vintage has, once again, produced a rich, Burgundy-style white. It delivers on creamy intensity, ripe peach fruit and layers of buttery complexity. Ideally serve this big-statement white with cured ham, guinea fowl and wild mushrooms or creamy fish pie. Serve cool.
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Renowned French winemaker Gérard Bertrand makes his £40+ a bottle Corbières in craggy Boutenac. Just across a small country road is the village of Fabrezan and its equally amazing vineyards. It's where, in fact, Tony Laithwaite bought his first Corbières shipment back in 1971. Today young couple Amelie and Jean-Baptiste work tirelessly, in evenings and weekends (after their day jobs as consultant winemakers), tending their ancient vines and making their cru quality Corbières.
The vines were planted by J-B's great grandfather, a cellar built by his son, but more recently the grapes were all sold to the local coop. J-B and Amelie took over in 2007 and decided they could make something much better. This fabulous Grand Cru style is the result.
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