Château de Birot is an elegant, 17th-century property with vineyards perched on a high plateau looking down on the Garonne river and across to famous Sauternes. Until a few years ago, it belonged to the renowned Castéja family. They sold it and the new owners have been working hard, updating the estate. In the cellar, they discovered a forgotten batch of château wine from 2007.

Despite its 17 years’ age, it’s still tasting delicious, complex and long. It’s Merlot dominated from estate vineyards in the superior Premières Côtes, with a little of both Cabernets. After 17 years of maturing in the cellars, it has developed some sediment in bottle. A good sign. Stand the bottle upright for a few hours and carefully decant just before serving.

With Gold medals galore, Thierry Ferlay has made wine all over the world but remains fondest of the warm, ripe reds of the southern Rhône. He also adores their chief grape, Grenache – the most important variety in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. In fact he’s in charge of winemaking at this renowned appellation’s only co-operative winery, where all the growers are part-owners of the enterprise. Naturally, maximising quality is at the forefront of their minds, which explains this wine’s exceptional flavour and value.

Made purely from Grenache, it has irresistible raspberry fruit, hints of spice and a peppery edge. Enjoy with ratatouille, lamb chops and homemade burgers. And because it’s so smooth and not too heavy, it’s ideal sipping on its own, too.

Since 1980, Jacky Gilson has been a grower and winemaker in the tiny, forgotten Burgundy region of Saint-Bris. In fact, the appellation was only created in 2003. It lies just 10 miles west of Chablis and is the only one permitted to use Sauvignon Blanc in its wines. Jacky himself grows both Sauvignon and Aligoté in his 40 hectares of vines, specialising in tantalisingly fresh, pure, crisp whites.

Hard work in the vineyard and minimal intervention in the cellar makes for very pure fruit whites, big on aromatics and with a core of freshness. Aged on its lees for six months, it has roundness too. Chill and enjoy as an apéritif, with garlicky snails or grilled fish. And from such an exceptional vintage, there is no rush with this wine.

When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.