Fronsac's fine Château Dalem perches high on a hill, surrounded by its 14 hectares of sloping vineyards. It's an historic estate, with records dating back to 1610, that stayed in the same family until 1955. Michel Rullier then took it over and today it's run with great success by his descendant, Brigitte Rullier-Loussert. Its vineyards are nearly all planted to Merlot, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, and tended with meticulous care.
As you can see from critics' scores (92 points from James Suckling and 94 from Vertedevin), it is an admired claret and one that ages very well too. Matured in French oak (50% new), it has structure and length, but above all an appealing fruity depth. Perfect with roast meat or wild mushroom risotto.
For a bright, fresh Bordeaux Sauvignon, you won't beat this eight-Golds 2020 from Jean Gueridon. It's old vines with meticulous care, that give it such intensity and freshness, with a light floral touch to the citrusy fruit.
Jean Gueridon is the proud owner and winemaker of Château Les Moutins in the beautiful rolling hills of Bordeaux's Entre-Deux-Mers. Jean bought the estate in 1995 and has been upping the quality every year since. On his extensive vineyards of clay and limestone, he grows mostly Sauvignon Blanc, with a touch of Sémillon, on vines that are mostly 40 years old.
No wonder, then, the concentration in the wine is so good. It certainly bowled over judges in eight competitions, winning Gold every time. With three months ageing on its lees, the wine has lovely texture and roundness, with a creamy note to the bright citrus and grassy fruit and lift of blossom. Chilled down, it's a cracker on its own, or with seafood or goat's cheese soufflé.
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Top Soave is a revelation – it offers delicately nuanced fruit, creamy body and stony freshness that enable the wines to age gracefully. You find all this and more in this sensational white from local star winemaker Antonio Fattori. Wine Advocate says “his white Soave expressions are the true standouts”. He searches out Garganega grapes from the slopes of Monte Calvarina, the volcanic soils of which lend a bright minerality to the wine. Hand picking is as essential on these steep slopes as it is for quality, while lees stirring in old oak vats lends a creamy roundness and texture to this terrific wine. Delicate apricot with wild herb notes of sage make this an exciting white. Gently chill and serve with fine white meat or fish dishes.
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If you enjoy quality wine and appreciate value, southern France has a lot to offer. There is a myriad of appellations and producers to get to know. And fewer rules to follow, so winemakers can be creative. We have been wending our way around villages and vineyards there since the late 1960s so we know where to look and have many invaluable connections.
Yannick Pons of Domaine Saint André has a beautiful estate, skirted by the Canal du Midi and the Roman road Via Domitia. It's not far from the famous Oppidum (hilltop town) d’Ensérune, which dates back some 3,000 years. This is prime Chardonnay country, producing lovely, pure, creamy peach fruit in this modern style white. It’s perfect on its own or with salads, fish dishes or roast chicken.
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True to its Marlborough origins, Duck ’n’ Pheasant is a crisp, ‘jump from the glass’ aromatic Sauvignon. Quality in 2022 was so good, the team were able to make us more passion fruit zing, using top grapes from individual growers.
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