Best known in Beaujolais, Gamay also excels in the Loire, lending juicy strawberry notes, while Cabernet Franc is more raspberry and leafy. After a gentle crushing, the juice was drawn off the skins to ensure a pale pink hue and cool fermented to retain lovely summer berry notes.

Gascony used to be a one-trick pony, making the fine spirit of Armagnac. The market for that dropped dramatically 30 years ago, and growers had to search for another use for their grapes. They discovered that their Atlantic influenced climate was ideal for producing crisp, fruity whites. Good value too. Domaine de Mouchan, on the edge of the Landes de Gascony forest, has been the pride and joy of the Braisant family since 1949.

They have 58 hectares of vines growing local heroes Colombard, Ugni Blanc, Gros Manseng, even the red grape Tannat, plus Sauvignon and Chardonnay. They still produce eau de vie Armagnac, but also bright crisp, fruit driven whites like this gem. Chill down, it makes a delightful apéritif or partner to lighter dishes.

Château de Birot is an elegant, 17th-century property with vineyards perched on a high plateau looking down on the Garonne river and across to famous Sauternes. Until a few years ago, it belonged to the renowned Castéja family. They sold it and the new owners have been working hard, updating the estate. In the cellar, they discovered a forgotten batch of château wine from 2007.

Despite its 17 years’ age, it’s still tasting delicious, complex and long. It’s Merlot dominated from estate vineyards in the superior Premières Côtes, with a little of both Cabernets. After 17 years of maturing in the cellars, it has developed some sediment in bottle. A good sign. Stand the bottle upright for a few hours and carefully decant just before serving.

Bernard Moreau has been in charge of his small family domaine in the Mâconnais since 1982 and is now assisted by his son, Alex, as winemaker. It lies very close to a village called Chardonnay, just like the grape! For this white, they use fruit from their 60-year-old vines, planted on calcareous soils and with excellent sun exposure. This is the perfect formula for wine with depth and concentration.

Plus, 2022 whites are blessed with richness, body and ripeness, a generous year. Bernard tends his vines with the utmost care, using sustainable, eco-friendly methods. This results in a wine with a balance of creamy roundness, ripe pear, crisp minerality and finesse. Serve cellar cool with creamy sauced dishes to best enjoy its subtle flavour.