Corbières is one of the best-known regions of southern France, adored for its characterful, robust reds, laced with dark fruit, wild herb and tobacco notes. This is a terrific find from the Terre d'Expression cellar in Fabrezan. It's a cooperative cellar, that works with its growers to gain exceptional quality grapes. All the fruit for Villa Pech Fourcat comes from a single estate in Boutenac, the only village in Corbières which may be named on the label.
Its wines are supreme thanks to very stony soils, hot dry summers and cooling winds. Vines for this red are, on average, 65 years old and very low yielding, which only adds to the power and intensity of this fabulous wine. For drinking now, open a couple of hours beforehand and decant.
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Its vineyards are nearly all planted to Merlot, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, and tended with meticulous care. As you can see from critics' scores, it is an admired claret and one that ages very well too. Matured in French oak (50% new), it has structure and length, but above all an appealing depth of luscious fruit and spice – like Christmas in a glass! It’s a luxurious sipper, ideal with cheese after the Christmas feast. “Spiced plums and cocoa-dusted blueberries ... Succulent" (James Suckling, 94pts)
With four Trophies and 80+ Golds, Château La Clarière is clear proof that Castillon wines can surpass those of Grand Cru St-Émilion. From the exceptional 2020 vintage, this rich, velvety claret, packed with fruit, deserves its five Golds.
Until 1997, Château Haut Brisson was an 8-hectare estate in the Vignonet section of Saint Emilion. New owner Peter Kwok was keen to expand its vineyards and the range of terroir, so began to buy up vine parcels to make it up to the 18 hectares it has today. Judging by today's scores and the quality of the wine, Kwok purchased wisely and quality has soared. Today it is under the ownership of Stephane Schinazi and continues its stellar projection, with Michel Rolland as consultant.
All its top grapes go into this wine (they no longer make La Réserve), ageing 30% of it in new French barriques, so as not to overwwhelm the fruit with oak notes. Now certified organic, with the aim of going biodynamic too, the 2020 is a magnificent wine.
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Fronsac's fine Château Dalem perches high on a hill, surrounded by its 14 hectares of sloping vineyards. It's an historic estate, with records dating back to 1610, that stayed in the same family until 1955. Michel Rullier then took it over and today it's run with great success by his descendant, Brigitte Rullier-Loussert. Its vineyards are nearly all planted to Merlot, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, and tended with meticulous care.
As you can see from critics' scores (92 points from James Suckling and 94 from Vertedevin), it is an admired claret and one that ages very well too. Matured in French oak (50% new), it has structure and length, but above all an appealing fruity depth. Perfect with roast meat or wild mushroom risotto.
This is one of those 'under-the-radar' regions I love to search out, home to the finest quality wines, but not so well-known. As Wine International says, "If it weren't for the [political] line dividing Castillon from Saint-Émilion, its wines would be twice the price. The hills are the same, the soil is the same, the exposure is the same." The estate has won over 150 awards, including the Paris Lauréat Prix d'Excellence – not once, but twice – and Decanter magazine calls it the "leading estate in the Côtes de Castillon". La Clarière is our flagship wine and absolutely no expense is spared. Low yields, careful hand-sorting, months ageing in the finest new French oak, and rigorous tasting ensure only the best parcels become La Clarière. Mostly Merlot, silky, elegant, and supple, with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon for structure, and slightly portioned Malbec and Cabernet Franc for balance. It's truly magnificent!
