Ludovic Roussillon is one of the top viticulteurs in Bordeaux’s Entre-Deux-Mers. He knows how to coax the very best out of his soils to get the most flavour in his grapes. Work hard in the vineyard and the wine almost makes itself, he says. We’ve worked with Ludovic for a number of years, enjoying both his red and his white from Château Le Coin. This is another wine from his vineyards – mostly Merlot, with a little Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon – all vinified to bring out the fruit richness, supported by sleek tannins.
Rethink Bordeaux with this supple, generously fruity, rounded red. It’s already drinking really well, with or without food. Roast beef, full flavoured pasta dishes, charcuterie, cheese – this wine is very versatile.
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Until 1997, Château Haut Brisson was an 8-hectare estate in the Vignonet section of Saint Emilion. New owner Peter Kwok was keen to expand its vineyards and the range of terroir, so began to buy up vine parcels to make it up to the 18 hectares it has today. Judging by today's scores and the quality of the wine, Kwok purchased wisely and quality has soared. Today it is under the ownership of Stephane Schinazi and continues its stellar projection, with Michel Rolland as consultant.
All its top grapes go into this wine (they no longer make La Réserve), ageing 30% of it in new French barriques, so as not to overwwhelm the fruit with oak notes. Now certified organic, with the aim of going biodynamic too, the 2020 is a magnificent wine.
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If you enjoy quality wine and appreciate value, southern France has a lot to offer. There is a myriad of appellations and producers to get to know. And fewer rules to follow, so winemakers can be creative. We have been wending our way around villages and vineyards there since the late 1960s so we know where to look and have many invaluable connections.
Yannick Pons of Domaine Saint André has a beautiful estate, skirted by the Canal du Midi and the Roman road Via Domitia. It's not far from the famous Oppidum (hilltop town) d’Ensérune, which dates back some 3,000 years. This is prime Chardonnay country, producing lovely, pure, creamy peach fruit in this modern style white. It’s perfect on its own or with salads, fish dishes or roast chicken.
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