For a bright, fresh Bordeaux Sauvignon, you won't beat this eight-Golds 2020 from Jean Gueridon. It's old vines with meticulous care, that give it such intensity and freshness, with a light floral touch to the citrusy fruit.
Jean Gueridon is the proud owner and winemaker of Château Les Moutins in the beautiful rolling hills of Bordeaux's Entre-Deux-Mers. Jean bought the estate in 1995 and has been upping the quality every year since. On his extensive vineyards of clay and limestone, he grows mostly Sauvignon Blanc, with a touch of Sémillon, on vines that are mostly 40 years old.
No wonder, then, the concentration in the wine is so good. It certainly bowled over judges in eight competitions, winning Gold every time. With three months ageing on its lees, the wine has lovely texture and roundness, with a creamy note to the bright citrus and grassy fruit and lift of blossom. Chilled down, it's a cracker on its own, or with seafood or goat's cheese soufflé.
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Golds and many high scores for this luxurious Premier Cru, pure Chardonnay Champagne – rich and long.
Paul Goerg is a leading independent Champagne house, as this Premier Cru testifies. Owned by eight grower families, it was voted by Le Guide Hachette as the top Champagne out of 100 tasted – above vintage Veuve Clicquot and equal to Krug. Goerg is named after a respected 19th century mayor of Vertus, located in the famous Côte des Blancs. Here, Chardonnay is king and an impressive 85% of it is classified as Premier Cru.
The elegance, finesse and purity of this variety is the hallmark of the Goerg style, enriched here with 40-50% reserve wine. The chalky soils of Vertus lend a rich, yet refreshingly mineral quality, while three years’ ageing adds considerably to the wine’s complexity. Superb for celebrations and lovely with oysters.
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With four Trophies and 80+ Golds, Château La Clarière is clear proof that Castillon wines can surpass those of Grand Cru St-Émilion. From the exceptional 2020 vintage, this rich, velvety claret, packed with fruit, deserves its five Golds.
Founded 200 years ago, Château Pédesclaux is a magnificent estate, both in terms of wine and architecture. It combines the beauty of the 19th century with the modernity and technological advances of the 21st.
The additional work was undertaken by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte, whose aim was to place “production at the heart of the estate within a high-performance building that is entirely fit for purpose and makes a harmonious whole with both the château and its surroundings”. It's quite something to behold.
Since the Lorenzetti family took ownership they've converted to organic. Their top wine is a rich, Cabernet-based claret, supported by Merlot, and finely expresses its gravel terroir. Still a young wine – best to cellar or open early.
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When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.
With four Trophies and 80+ Golds, Château La Clarière is clear proof that Castillon wines can surpass those of Grand Cru St-Émilion. La Clarière deserves its title as “leading estate in Côtes de Castillon” (Decanter).
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