When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.

Michel Chapoutier is renowned for his brilliant Rhône wines, but this region alone couldn’t contain his brilliance. Since he took over the family estate in 1990, he has also acquired sites in Languedoc, Roussillon, Provence, Alsace – and far afield in Oregon, Australia’s Heathcote and Portugal. Domaine de Bila-Haut is his prize in the Roussillon’s Latour de France. Its rugged slopes include gneiss, schist, chalk and limestone, lending richness, depth, power and finesse.

This white is made from Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Maccabeu, with a little this vintage of Marsanne, Viognier and Roussanne for a more aromatic style. Pure, unoaked and full of white peach fruit, it’s great with trout or chicken, but also a delicious glass solo.

Since he took over the family estate in 1990, he has also acquired sites in Languedoc, Roussillon, Provence, Alsace – and far afield in Oregon, Australia’s Heathcote and Portugal. Domaine de Bila-Haut is his prize in the Roussillon’s Latour de France.

Its rugged slopes include soils of gneiss, schist, chalk and limestone, lending richness, depth, power and finesse.

This white is made from Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Macabeu, with a little this vintage of Marsanne, Viognier and Roussanne for a more aromatic style.

Pure, unoaked and with white peach fruit, it pairs well with trout or chicken, but is great solo, too.

In 1969, Michel Bécot acquired the château and brought the area under vine up to 18.50 hectares thanks to the purchase of neighbouring vineyard plots with the same terroir. He also turned seven hectares of former underground limestone quarries into a storage cellar where tens of thousands of bottles age under ideal conditions. His work in improving and embellishing the estate went on until his retirement in 1985. His two sons, Gérard and Dominique, have followed in their father’s footsteps while introducing numerous technical innovations to both the cellars and the vineyard. Only the ripest, healthiest grapes are now harvested, and then sorted one by one. Gérard’s daughter, Juliette, started working at the château in 2001 in order to market wines from the family estate.95-97 points Wine Advocate Displaying a deep purple-black color, the 2020 Beau-Sejour Becot prances out of the glass with showy scents of preserved plums, chocolate-covered cherries, wild blueberries and raspberry preserves, plus suggestions of rose oil, ground cloves and licorice. The elegantly crafted, medium-bodied palate shimmers with energy, offering a fantastic intensity of crunchy red and black fruits, supported by fine-grained tannins and bold freshness, finishing long and perfumed. Simply stunning. (5/2021)

94-96 points Jeb Dunnuck The vivid purple-hued 2020 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot is another ethereal, incredibly perfumed, mineral-laced Saint-Emilion, which is common from wines from the upper, limestone plateau. Gorgeous cassis and black cherry fruits as well as floral notes, violets, and chalky minerality all define the nose, and it’s medium-bodied, has wonderfulness and purity, and reveals a liqueur of rocks-like minerality on the finish. It’s another thrillingly complete wine from this team that shines for its purity, elegance, and complexity. (5/2021)

J. Suckling : 96-97/100

Anthocyanes / Y.Castaing : 98-100/100

Terre de Vins : 98-98/100

Decanter : 95/100

Jeb Dunnuck : 94-96/100

Wine Advocate : 95-97/100

Vinous – N.Martin : 92-94/100

Formerly known as Capbern Gasqueton, this Cru Bourgeois Saint-Estèphe estate has been in the same family for 10 generations. It's the same family that owns 3ème Cru Classé Calon Ségur. It lies in one of the finest parts of the appellation, between Phelan Ségur and Meyney, and every aspect is given Grand Cru care. Hand picking of the 41 hectares of vines, with ageing in top-quality oak, all adds up to the exceptional quality.

This vintage has gathered many top scores from wine critics such as Jeb Dunnuck and James Suckling, who called it "full-bodied with a deep character". Two thirds Cabernet with almost the same in new oak, it has “gorgeous cassis, violets, classy oak, with beautiful tannins” (Jeb Dunnuck). One to cellar for a few years.

Lying close to Margaux's Châteaux Giscours and du Tertre, Château Cazauviel remains surprisingly under the radar. It was inherited by Régis Bernaleau from his father in 1978 and today remains in family hands. It is situated on the prized gravel soils of the Arsac plateau, which lends both an intensity and a finesse to the wine. This pretty claret is from a vintage struck by early April frosts – the most devastating for many years.

It reduced yields, but as Decanter wrote, "there are some excellent wines." Most, like Cazauviel 2017, are not long keepers, but makes delightful drinking now. Ideally open a couple of hours before serving and decant. It'll make a delicious glass with roast chicken with morels or a mushroom croustade.

It's a cru area, with vineyards planted on the mountain's lower slopes. Warm sunny days and cold nights are perfect for bringing out the aroma, elegance and freshness in its grapes.

Fifth generation Didier Lefebvre's Château La Bégude was founded in 1896. Such is his passion for his mature vineyards, he has converted them all to organic.

He grows classic Provence varieties – Cinsault, Grenache and Carignan, with a sprinkle of Vermentino, Ugni Blanc, Syrah and Mourvèdre.

Picked early morning and cool fermented, it captures all the savoury berry freshness you'd expect of this great wine.

Southern Burgundy’s Mâconnais has long been known for being a hotspot for good value but in the last decade its winemakers have proved that this goes hand in hand with remarkable quality too. They may not be able to put ‘Grand Cru’ on the label, but some of the bottles certainly warrant it. The Greuzards have been crafting superb wines at their Greffière estate for four generations now.

In fact there is evidence the property was making wine from 1585. Their top vineyard – La Roche Vineuse – is 12 hectares with vines 30 to 50-years-old. No wonder the fruit is so deliciously concentrated and long. Slow fermentation with lees stirring results in this rich complex style. Serve lightly chilled with white meats, risotto or a creamy fish dish.

Castillon is a tucked-away Right Bank Bordeaux appellation that, for too long, has lived in the shadow of its famous neighbour, Saint-Emilion. The two regions share the same soils, grapes and climate and the best Castillon wines certainly stand scrutiny next to the Grands Crus of the famous one. The upside is that claret lovers can still find Castillon wines at exceptionally good prices.

Château Joanin came into the Bécot family in 2001. It has the highest vineyards in all Castillon, in the lieu-dit of Joanin. Juliette Bécot is today in charge and, with the renowned Bordeaux winemaker Thomas Duclos as consultant, it’s clear they are aiming high. Merlot with Cabernet Franc, aged 50% in new oak, this is a rich red. Open early and decant.