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Since he took over the family estate in 1990, he has also acquired sites in Languedoc, Roussillon, Provence, Alsace – and far afield in Oregon, Australia’s Heathcote and Portugal. Domaine de Bila-Haut is his prize in the Roussillon’s Latour de France.
Its rugged slopes include soils of gneiss, schist, chalk and limestone, lending richness, depth, power and finesse.
This white is made from Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Macabeu, with a little this vintage of Marsanne, Viognier and Roussanne for a more aromatic style.
Pure, unoaked and with white peach fruit, it pairs well with trout or chicken, but is great solo, too.
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For a great value rival to the wines of Provence, look to Bordeaux. Here, among the classic family estates and old vines, dry, elegant and fruit-filled rosé shines. Try this 2019 – brimful of strawberry, gooseberry and pink grapefruit flavours.
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Say 'elegant French pink' and you're likely to head straight for Provence. But don't forget Corsica and its Île de Beauté. This beautiful island also makes very fine, delicate rosé, as you'll find in this berry fresh and citrus crisp 2020.
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Over the centuries Alsace has been tossed between French and German ownership. Today, it is on the French side, producing exquisitely intense, superbly balanced, long flavoured wines. This Gewürz from Bott-Geyl is an absolute stunner.
Gascony used to be a one-trick pony, making the fine spirit of Armagnac. The market for that dropped dramatically 30 years ago, and growers had to search for another use for their grapes. They discovered that their Atlantic influenced climate was ideal for producing crisp, fruity whites. Good value too. Domaine de Mouchan, on the edge of the Landes de Gascony forest, has been the pride and joy of the Braisant family since 1949.
They have 58 hectares of vines growing local heroes Colombard, Ugni Blanc, Gros Manseng, even the red grape Tannat, plus Sauvignon and Chardonnay. They still produce eau de vie Armagnac, but also bright crisp, fruit driven whites like this gem. Chill down, it makes a delightful apéritif or partner to lighter dishes.
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Provence is France’s premier rosé region and Domaine de Paris is one of its most stylish and elegant. A previous vintage even gained mention in the prestigious US journal Wine Spectator: “Very good – a wine with special qualities. Dry and refined, with dried berry and cherry flavors and plenty of minerally notes.” The estate has been owned since 1900 by three generations of the Brun family.
50 year old Syrah and Grenache vines produce fruit of superb concentration and impeccable purity. There’s a tantalising steeliness to the structure, a flinty backbone coupled with wild strawberries and a lovely savoury note. Fine Provence rosé is not just for summer! The locals enjoy it all year round, on its own or with seafood, chicken or ratatouille.
Our scout and buyer for the Languedoc-Roussillon is Mark Hoddy. He's always searching the region's vineyards, to check out the vintage and the finest parcels of grapes. This is an ace find Mark discovered first in 2019 via an old friend in Corbières. Close by is Domaine La Lirande, a small estate founded in 1912 by the grandfather, François, in the tiny village of Coulobres. Every year, the Syrah from the domaine's 8 hectares of 40-year-old vines stands out for quality. Just taste the richness of this seductive red. Ripe black fruit, velvety, with smoky liquorice and wild herb notes, it's young, so best with hearty dishes like pasta bake or at a barbecue.