Formerly known as Capbern Gasqueton, this Cru Bourgeois Saint-Estèphe estate has been in the same family for 10 generations. It's the same family that owns 3ème Cru Classé Calon Ségur. It lies in one of the finest parts of the appellation, between Phelan Ségur and Meyney, and every aspect is given Grand Cru care. Hand picking of the 41 hectares of vines, with ageing in top-quality oak, all adds up to the exceptional quality.
This vintage has gathered many top scores from wine critics such as Jeb Dunnuck and James Suckling, who called it "full-bodied with a deep character". Two thirds Cabernet with almost the same in new oak, it has “gorgeous cassis, violets, classy oak, with beautiful tannins” (Jeb Dunnuck). One to cellar for a few years.
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Lying close to Margaux's Châteaux Giscours and du Tertre, Château Cazauviel remains surprisingly under the radar. It was inherited by Régis Bernaleau from his father in 1978 and today remains in family hands. It is situated on the prized gravel soils of the Arsac plateau, which lends both an intensity and a finesse to the wine. This pretty claret is from a vintage struck by early April frosts – the most devastating for many years.
It reduced yields, but as Decanter wrote, "there are some excellent wines." Most, like Cazauviel 2017, are not long keepers, but makes delightful drinking now. Ideally open a couple of hours before serving and decant. It'll make a delicious glass with roast chicken with morels or a mushroom croustade.
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Fronsac's fine Château Dalem perches high on a hill, surrounded by its 14 hectares of sloping vineyards. It's an historic estate, with records dating back to 1610, that stayed in the same family until 1955. Michel Rullier then took it over and today it's run with great success by his descendant, Brigitte Rullier-Loussert. Its vineyards are nearly all planted to Merlot, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, and tended with meticulous care.
As you can see from critics' scores (92 points from James Suckling and 94 from Vertedevin), it is an admired claret and one that ages very well too. Matured in French oak (50% new), it has structure and length, but above all an appealing fruity depth. Perfect with roast meat or wild mushroom risotto.
Until 1997, Château Haut Brisson was an 8-hectare estate in the Vignonet section of Saint Emilion. New owner Peter Kwok was keen to expand its vineyards and the range of terroir, so began to buy up vine parcels to make it up to the 18 hectares it has today. Judging by today's scores and the quality of the wine, Kwok purchased wisely and quality has soared. Today it is under the ownership of Stephane Schinazi and continues its stellar projection, with Michel Rolland as consultant.
All its top grapes go into this wine (they no longer make La Réserve), ageing 30% of it in new French barriques, so as not to overwwhelm the fruit with oak notes. Now certified organic, with the aim of going biodynamic too, the 2020 is a magnificent wine.
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With four Trophies and 80+ Golds, Château La Clarière is clear proof that Castillon wines can surpass those of Grand Cru St-Émilion. From the exceptional 2020 vintage, this rich, velvety claret, packed with fruit, deserves its five Golds.
