Château Puech-Haut is the prized property of Gérard Bru, a passionate champion of the Languedoc.

His vineyards occupy exceptional sites, with clay and limestone soils, topped by large galet stones (just like Châteauneuf-du-Pape). That and the warm Mediterranean climate results in a very luscious style.

He has employed some top-name consultants from the start – first Bordeaux's Michel Rolland, now Philippe Cambie.

He also boasts the largest barrel in the world – so big that there's a shop inside! Critic Andrew Jefford called Gérard Bru "a dark horse", whose grandfather used to swap wine for potatoes!

Using classic grapes Roussanne, Marsanne and Viogner, barrel fermented in new oak, with bâtonnage, this is luscious, mouthfilling style.

This fine Jura estate was founded in 1742 and, with the accumulated wisdom of nine generations, remains in the same family. They started out as farmers, with a few vines. Then in 1950, 7th-generation René Baud worked to restore the vineyards after the devastation of both two world wars and phylloxera. Since then, the four hectares has grown to 20 and the 9th generation, Bastien and Clementine, are running the domaine.

They are sustainable in their approach, gaining Terra Vitis status in 2014. Just over half of their production is Chardonnay, here from some of their oldest vines, planted in 1930. Fermentation and ageing in seasoned oak barrels lends a creamy weight and roundness to the apple-fresh fruit. Great with creamy sauced chicken.

Jeff Carrel describes himself as an eclectic winemaker. He’s part of a new generation of winemakers, operating without a vineyard or a winery. Instead, he sources small parcels of grapes from growers, rents a corner of a cellar and focuses on making brilliant wines. Currently, Jeff makes around 40 wines this way, including Morillon (the southern French term for Chardonnay).

Following malolactic fermentation in barrel and the addition of grapes with a hint of noble rot, the 2022 vintage has, once again, produced a rich, Burgundy-style white. It delivers on creamy intensity, ripe peach fruit and layers of buttery complexity. Ideally serve this big-statement white with cured ham, guinea fowl and wild mushrooms or creamy fish pie. Serve cool.