When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.

Wine Enthusiast calls Amarone “one of the 15 icons in Italian wine”. They are certainly some of the most prized reds from Italy, made by the ancient tradition of sun drying grapes before fermentation. This gives them an amazing richness, a glorious combination of power and complexity that cellars well, too. No wonder they are prized the world over. This 2017 from the renowned Cantina Negrar is named after the 18th century poet Bartolomeo Lorenzi, whose epic poem celebrating rural life made Valpolicella wines famous. The grapes are from the ancient dry stone terraces of the cool Marano Valley, where they ripen slowly. They are then air dried for 120 days to intensify flavours. A superb bottle to enjoy now with hearty dishes or to cellar.

Sip with a cheese plate and dried fruits after Christmas lunch – a beautiful pairing.

Today it is famous for breeding Lusitano dressage horses – and, of course, its very fine wine.

Lobo e Falcão Centenário Grande Reserva 2020 comes from José's secret tiny vineyard. It’s his ancient‘illegal’vineyard of 100-year-old – and even older – vines.‘Illegal’because the authorities argue that these old vines should not have the right to the Tejo denomination … simply because the vines are planted amidst equally ancient olive trees. But José refuses to stop making it. One taste will show you why! Just like the old days, the grapes are hand-picked and trodden by foot in the cellar's traditional old‘lagars’(stone troughs). Lavishly dense with velvety black fruits, dark chocolate and spice on a long, sumptuous finish, It’s absolutely spectacular