When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.
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It's a cru area, with vineyards planted on the mountain's lower slopes. Warm sunny days and cold nights are perfect for bringing out the aroma, elegance and freshness in its grapes.
Fifth generation Didier Lefebvre's Château La Bégude was founded in 1896. Such is his passion for his mature vineyards, he has converted them all to organic.
He grows classic Provence varieties – Cinsault, Grenache and Carignan, with a sprinkle of Vermentino, Ugni Blanc, Syrah and Mourvèdre.
Picked early morning and cool fermented, it captures all the savoury berry freshness you'd expect of this great wine.
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For a great value rival to the wines of Provence, look to Bordeaux. Here, among the classic family estates and old vines, dry, elegant and fruit-filled rosé shines. Try this 2019 – brimful of strawberry, gooseberry and pink grapefruit flavours.
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Over the centuries Alsace has been tossed between French and German ownership. Today, it is on the French side, producing exquisitely intense, superbly balanced, long flavoured wines. This Gewürz from Bott-Geyl is an absolute stunner.
Since 1980, Jacky Gilson has been a grower and winemaker in the tiny, forgotten Burgundy region of Saint-Bris. In fact, the appellation was only created in 2003. It lies just 10 miles west of Chablis and is the only one permitted to use Sauvignon Blanc in its wines. Jacky himself grows both Sauvignon and Aligoté in his 40 hectares of vines, specialising in tantalisingly fresh, pure, crisp whites.
Hard work in the vineyard and minimal intervention in the cellar makes for very pure fruit whites, big on aromatics and with a core of freshness. Aged on its lees for six months, it has roundness too. Chill and enjoy as an apéritif, with garlicky snails or grilled fish. And from such an exceptional vintage, there is no rush with this wine.
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