Château de Birot is an elegant, 17th-century property with vineyards perched on a high plateau looking down on the Garonne river and across to famous Sauternes. Until a few years ago, it belonged to the renowned Castéja family. They sold it and the new owners have been working hard, updating the estate. In the cellar, they discovered a forgotten batch of château wine from 2007.

Despite its 17 years’ age, it’s still tasting delicious, complex and long. It’s Merlot dominated from estate vineyards in the superior Premières Côtes, with a little of both Cabernets. After 17 years of maturing in the cellars, it has developed some sediment in bottle. A good sign. Stand the bottle upright for a few hours and carefully decant just before serving.

If you love crisp, dry, appetising whites, you can’t do better than Muscadet. Having lost out in the past to the New World, its winemakers have been working extremely hard of late to win back consumers so quality and value have never been better.

Robert Parker described the Muscadet appellation’s wines as “probably the world’s greatest white wine value”, while wine writer Hugh Johnson said “I can think of nothing more refreshing”. The region is right on the Atlantic coast, so its wines are wonderfully evocative of the sea. You’ll taste that maritime freshness in this delicious white from fourth-generation winemaker Noël Bougrier. For a quintessentially French experience, serve chilled with a bowl of moules frites – mussels and French fries.

Its vineyards are nearly all planted to Merlot, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, and tended with meticulous care. As you can see from critics' scores, it is an admired claret and one that ages very well too. Matured in French oak (50% new), it has structure and length, but above all an appealing depth of luscious fruit and spice – like Christmas in a glass! It’s a luxurious sipper, ideal with cheese after the Christmas feast. “Spiced plums and cocoa-dusted blueberries ... Succulent" (James Suckling, 94pts)

Provence is synonymous with lavender fields, sunshine and delicate pink rosés many regard as the best in the world. Since the influx of millionaires and movie stars in recent decades, it’s also become one of the pricier regions of France. Yet, happily, we can still enjoy the trappings of the Côte d’Azur lifestyle with wines like Domaine Pontfract. It comes from a 20 hectare estate with chalky, stony soil and sunshine all summer long.

The prime ingredients of Provence rosé, Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan, love these conditions. Winemaker Marie Alejandro gives the grapes a gentle pressing to extract a delicate colour and delightful, strawberry scented aromas. Enjoy this pink on its own, or with olive tapenade or a fresh seafood platter.

Cabalié's popularity is down to a rare combination of imposing richness and easy drinking smoothness. Recreating that in white was no easy task. But Cabalié maestro Hervé Sabardeil has done it – years of searching, blending and hard work come to fruition in this, his ultimate expression of a southern French white. The magical grape mix is old-vine Viognier for intense honeysuckle aroma and soft texture, Muscat for dazzling grapey notes, and Colombard to keep it all zesty. And of course the other key ingredients are bright southern French sunshine, which ripens the grapes to perfection, sea breezes to keep them healthy and night harvesting to ensure maximum freshness. Bursting with tropical fruit, Cabalié is perfect with seafood or chicken.

Bernard Moreau has been in charge of his small family domaine in the Mâconnais since 1982 and is now assisted by his son, Alex, as winemaker. It lies very close to a village called Chardonnay, just like the grape! For this white, they use fruit from their 60-year-old vines, planted on calcareous soils and with excellent sun exposure. This is the perfect formula for wine with depth and concentration.

Plus, 2022 whites are blessed with richness, body and ripeness, a generous year. Bernard tends his vines with the utmost care, using sustainable, eco-friendly methods. This results in a wine with a balance of creamy roundness, ripe pear, crisp minerality and finesse. Serve cellar cool with creamy sauced dishes to best enjoy its subtle flavour.