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Until 1997, Château Haut Brisson was an 8-hectare estate in the Vignonet section of Saint Emilion. New owner Peter Kwok was keen to expand its vineyards and the range of terroir, so began to buy up vine parcels to make it up to the 18 hectares it has today. Judging by today's scores and the quality of the wine, Kwok purchased wisely and quality has soared. Today it is under the ownership of Stephane Schinazi and continues its stellar projection, with Michel Rolland as consultant.
All its top grapes go into this wine (they no longer make La Réserve), ageing 30% of it in new French barriques, so as not to overwwhelm the fruit with oak notes. Now certified organic, with the aim of going biodynamic too, the 2020 is a magnificent wine.
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With four Trophies and 80+ Golds, Château La Clarière is clear proof that Castillon wines can surpass those of Grand Cru St-Émilion. From the exceptional 2020 vintage, this rich, velvety claret, packed with fruit, deserves its five Golds.
This is one of those 'under-the-radar' regions I love to search out, home to the finest quality wines, but not so well-known. As Wine International says, "If it weren't for the [political] line dividing Castillon from Saint-Émilion, its wines would be twice the price. The hills are the same, the soil is the same, the exposure is the same." The estate has won over 150 awards, including the Paris Lauréat Prix d'Excellence – not once, but twice – and Decanter magazine calls it the "leading estate in the Côtes de Castillon". La Clarière is our flagship wine and absolutely no expense is spared. Low yields, careful hand-sorting, months ageing in the finest new French oak, and rigorous tasting ensure only the best parcels become La Clarière. Mostly Merlot, silky, elegant, and supple, with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon for structure, and slightly portioned Malbec and Cabernet Franc for balance. It's truly magnificent!
No frills or fancy castles here. Just true grit, hard work and a passion for classic clarets. The result is a regular Gold-medal, ripe, velvety Bordeaux red.
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Founded 200 years ago, Château Pédesclaux is a magnificent estate, both in terms of wine and architecture. It combines the beauty of the 19th century with the modernity and technological advances of the 21st.
The additional work was undertaken by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte, whose aim was to place “production at the heart of the estate within a high-performance building that is entirely fit for purpose and makes a harmonious whole with both the château and its surroundings”. It's quite something to behold.
Since the Lorenzetti family took ownership they've converted to organic. Their top wine is a rich, Cabernet-based claret, supported by Merlot, and finely expresses its gravel terroir. Still a young wine – best to cellar or open early.
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Despite the then-ongoing pandemic, wildfires and a state-wide drought, California’s winemakers say the 2021 vintage will be one of the best in recent memory. Lower yields and smaller berries led to all varieties showing greater flavour concentration, resulting in deeper, richer fruit in this remarkable red. Doohickey is crafted exclusively for us at a top Californian winery which we’re not allowed to name. If their regular customers saw the price of this red, they’d be up in arms and we’d never secure this deal again.
The wine delivers mouthfuls of blackcurrant and bramble fruit mingling with notes of toasty oak. A perfect red to open when you have friends round, it’s especially good with lamb – from spicy tagine to moussaka.
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With many wines ranked over 90 points, Bodegas La Emperatriz is one of Rioja's finest estates. This is their seductively long, complex 7-year-old Gran Reserva from a remarkably single vineyard, just beginning to show at its best. Savour slowly.
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