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Southern Burgundy’s Mâconnais has long been known for being a hotspot for good value but in the last decade its winemakers have proved that this goes hand in hand with remarkable quality too. They may not be able to put ‘Grand Cru’ on the label, but some of the bottles certainly warrant it. The Greuzards have been crafting superb wines at their Greffière estate for four generations now.
In fact there is evidence the property was making wine from 1585. Their top vineyard – La Roche Vineuse – is 12 hectares with vines 30 to 50-years-old. No wonder the fruit is so deliciously concentrated and long. Slow fermentation with lees stirring results in this rich complex style. Serve lightly chilled with white meats, risotto or a creamy fish dish.
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Wine International magazine decreed, “the revival of Muscadet is coming from growers like Gadais”, a 4th-generation estate, run today by father and son, Christophe and Pierre-Henri Gadais. It was founded in 1952 by Louis Gadais – one of the first winemakers in Nantes to bottle his own wines (most was sold to merchants in bulk). La Grande Réserve du Moulin is their top cuvée, using the best bunches of Melon de Bourgogne (the only grape permitted in Muscadet) from their vineyards. It’s a fine white aged sur lie, meaning it’s left for months on its fine lees to add subtle creamy complexity to the floral apple and pear fruit. 2023 was an exceptional vintage for Muscadet, as grapes were picked during the September heatwave. An ace seafood white.
Domaine de Bellene is the craftsmanship of Nicolas Potel, who learned at an early age from his renowned father, Gérard. He went on to gain experience in Australia and California. His father's early death meant the family estate had to be sold and Nicolas was left to build from nothing. At Bellene, Nicolas is both talented winemaker using estate fruit, and "haute-couture négociant", sourcing top-quality, old-vine grapes from individual growers.
His wines are "absolutely delicious" (Neal Martin), “in the class of the very best that Burgundy can produce,” wrote Jasper Morris MW. This wine is from densely planted vines in the Hautes Côtes. Wild yeast fermentation in oak, with 'malo' to lend creaminess, it combines a roundness with minerality.
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Jeff Carrel describes himself as an eclectic winemaker. He’s part of a new generation of winemakers, operating without a vineyard or a winery. Instead, he sources small parcels of grapes from growers, rents a corner of a cellar and focuses on making brilliant wines. Currently, Jeff makes around 40 wines this way, including Morillon (the southern French term for Chardonnay).
Following malolactic fermentation in barrel and the addition of grapes with a hint of noble rot, the 2022 vintage has, once again, produced a rich, Burgundy-style white. It delivers on creamy intensity, ripe peach fruit and layers of buttery complexity. Ideally serve this big-statement white with cured ham, guinea fowl and wild mushrooms or creamy fish pie. Serve cool.
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Cabalié's popularity is down to a rare combination of imposing richness and easy drinking smoothness. Recreating that in white was no easy task. But Cabalié maestro Hervé Sabardeil has done it – years of searching, blending and hard work come to fruition in this, his ultimate expression of a southern French white. The magical grape mix is old-vine Viognier for intense honeysuckle aroma and soft texture, Muscat for dazzling grapey notes, and Colombard to keep it all zesty. And of course the other key ingredients are bright southern French sunshine, which ripens the grapes to perfection, sea breezes to keep them healthy and night harvesting to ensure maximum freshness. Bursting with tropical fruit, Cabalié is perfect with seafood or chicken.
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Bordeaux's Côtes de Bourg and Blaye are renowned for classy reds. But our Trophy-winning winemaker Jean-Marc Sauboua has never been impressed by rules, so here's he's championing the regions' white grapes. Zesty fresh and lemony.
Winemaker Jean-Marc Sauboua has made wine all over the world. He's won loads of prizes too. But Bordeaux was where he was born and raised and where he's searched out the grapes for this snappy fresh white. He's worked with an award-winning ecological cellar on Bordeaux's Right Bank, Les Vignerons de Tutiac in the Côtes de Bordeaux. This is where you'll find some excellent clarets, but Jean-Marc was out to prove that white grapes could perform just as well. It's pure Sauvignon Blanc, taken from a variety of vineyards in both Côtes de Bourg and Blaye, each parcel contributing a different character to the wine. Bright, lemony and intense, it's an elegant white, as you'd expect from Bordeaux. Chill and serve with panfried white fish or solo.
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Château Puech-Haut is the prized property of Gérard Bru, a passionate champion of the Languedoc.
His vineyards occupy exceptional sites, with clay and limestone soils, topped by large galet stones (just like Châteauneuf-du-Pape). That and the warm Mediterranean climate results in a very luscious style.
He has employed some top-name consultants from the start – first Bordeaux's Michel Rolland, now Philippe Cambie.
He also boasts the largest barrel in the world – so big that there's a shop inside! Critic Andrew Jefford called Gérard Bru "a dark horse", whose grandfather used to swap wine for potatoes!
Using classic grapes Roussanne, Marsanne and Viogner, barrel fermented in new oak, with bâtonnage, this is luscious, mouthfilling style.
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