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Wine International magazine decreed, “the revival of Muscadet is coming from growers like Gadais”, a 4th-generation estate, run today by father and son, Christophe and Pierre-Henri Gadais. It was founded in 1952 by Louis Gadais – one of the first winemakers in Nantes to bottle his own wines (most was sold to merchants in bulk). La Grande Réserve du Moulin is their top cuvée, using the best bunches of Melon de Bourgogne (the only grape permitted in Muscadet) from their vineyards. It’s a fine white aged sur lie, meaning it’s left for months on its fine lees to add subtle creamy complexity to the floral apple and pear fruit. 2023 was an exceptional vintage for Muscadet, as grapes were picked during the September heatwave. An ace seafood white.
A fear of heights is a non-starter for those working in the vineyards of Vallée du Paradis. They perch perilously on the slopes below Peyrepertuse, an ancient Cathar fortress some 800m high in the Pyrenees. So collecting the intensely fruity, aromatic grapes is not for the faint-hearted. Luckily, winemaker Benjamin Andrieu is willing to put fear aside to tend them.
?The result is a really appealing red, with bright fruit and seductively spiced notes. Syrah brings ripe blackberry, herbs and liquorice notes, while juicy Grenache and peppery Carignan add even more depth and body. A top choice for those who love smooth, silky reds with the warmth of southern France. Great with grilled meats, pasta with pesto, aubergine bake or on its own.
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Christophe Reboul Salze is a big name in Bordeaux. Born in central France, he fell in love with the region's wines in his youth. Arriving in Bordeaux in 1980, he decided to make his passion a career. He gained a decade's experience trading in Grand Cru Classé wines and became director at one of the leading houses. Then started his own négociant business, which remains today a leader in the field.
However, he wanted to make wine too, so he purchased three estates in the Right Bank's Premières Côtes de Blaye and employed Stéphane Derenoncourt as consultant. The results have been exceptional. This superb claret uses a cuvée from each of his properties, Châteaux Les Grands Marechaux, Gigault and Belle Coline. A fine exclusive Bordeaux red.