Bordeaux-born Jean-Marc Sauboua has been our Trophy-winning winemaker at Bordeaux’s Château La Clarière for many years. In 2006, he decided to start a winery of his own and, with Spanish blood, decided Rioja was his destination. His aim: to make a Grand Cru of Rioja. He has no vineyards but works with the same growers he has since the start. The mature vines lie above 700 metres, the highest in Rioja, to ensure an elegant, modern style. He's won well 300 Golds since 2006, as well as Trophies for Winery of the Year, Rioja of the Year and Best Spanish Red over £10. 2021 was classed a very good vintage. High up where Altos lies, it's always cool, so ripening is slow, and wines are fresh. Aged a year in oak, this elegant red is best decanted.
In his book Grapes and Wines Oz Clarke rightly laments “the Muscat grape is treated with casual disregard by the majority of wine drinkers”. How so, when Muscat (aka Moscatel) is as old as wine itself, and so versatile it makes outstanding wines that can be sweet, dry, sparkling or fortified? Those in the know love Muscat for its exotic perfume and for the fact that it is perhaps the only wine that actually tastes of fresh grapes.
So without further ado get stuck into a glass of this Moscatel Rosado, unearthed by our award-winning Buyer for Spain. This modern, fruity, medium-dry, semi-sparkling rosé from sunny Valencian vineyards is addictively moreish. Savour well chilled – on its own or with grilled prawns or summer berries.
Next door to Rioja, Navarra has always been less traditional. Its winemakers were some of the first to break rank and grow non-traditional Spanish grapes. A daring move, but one celebrated now – Navarra Cabernet continues to impress.
This mellow 2017 comes from the 65-year-old Señoria de Sarria bodega, an estate highly regarded throughout the world which lies in Puente La Reina. The fruit that went into this wine usually goes into their flagship Reserva Especial, but winemaker Milagros Rodriguez put some aside to make this exciting blend.
Powerful Cabernet Sauvignon with silky old-vine Graciano, aged two years in barrel and another four years in bottle, this is a magnificent, mellow red, packed with dark fruits and sweet spice. It needs time to open up, so decant if you can, and then serve with your finest roast lamb.
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This is a deliciously fresh rosado from Rioja. It has all the ripe berry fruit you'd expect of Tempranillo, plus a zip of incisive citrusy freshness. It’s from the Chavarri family, whose cellar has been up and running since 1882. Ruth Chavarri Muro is today in charge, the fifth generation of her family to take the helm, with winemaker Miguel Lopez Nunez head of the cellar.
They can boast some of the highest vineyards in Rioja Alavesa, at 400 to 600 metres, all on excellent, limestone rich soils. Both these factors help to produce lovely intense flavours and delicious freshness in this pink. Just the colour invites you to pour a glass! Irresistible on its own and very food friendly. Chicken, seafood, salads and lighter vegetarian options.
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With many wines ranked over 90 points, Bodegas La Emperatriz is one of Rioja's finest estates. This is their seductively long, complex 7-year-old Gran Reserva from a remarkably single vineyard, just beginning to show at its best. Savour slowly.
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Muga is a byword for quality in Rioja. It's a family estate founded in 1932 and still housed in the historic Barrio de La Estación in Haro. It prides itself on some of the most traditional of red winemaking, as well as the most modern and fresh. As you might imagine Flor de Muga is in the latter camp. The grapes are pure Garnacha, taken from various plots, all planted at 600-750 metres high. In addition, the vines are aged between 70-90 years old, so produce fruit of fabulous intensity.
Couple that with the coolness of the vintage and you can imagine the wine's amazing mineral freshness. Using free-run juice, all lees aged for creamy roundness, it's very citrusy with delicate summer berries. "Possibly the finest vintage to date" (WA).
This is a stellar white Rioja. It’s the flagship of Altos, a cellar founded in 2006 by winemaker Jean-Marc Sauboua, and already with 125 Golds. Old-vine Viura and Chardonnay, fermented in barrel, this is intense, citrusy and toasty.
