He travelled the world making wine before an assignment to Spain in 2003. He fell in love with the ancient Garnacha bush vines of Calatayud and now can't drag himself away. This is his 'King of Garnacha' red, from his old, gnarled vineyards (50-120 years old) at a lofty 1000m above sea level. There, the blazing daytime sunshine ripens the grapes, while cold nights draw out the aromas and ensures excellent structure to this long-lived wine. Most other growers have abandoned their vineyards here – it's too hard to make a living. But Norrel teases out the very best from his grapes to make this exceptional, oak-aged red. Dark, spiced, silky and aromatic it's an exciting discovery that shows off the unique and characterfilled wines Spain is famous for.

It ended up being considerably longer than intended, but all's well that ends well, because 10 years later it's proved to be absolutely stunning – a silky, velvety luxury wine. A great choice with lamb.

Altos de Bergasa is from Bodegas La Eralta, a family-owned winery founded in 1990. Quite young in terms of Rioja.

It proudly owns 360 hectares of vineyard throughout the three subregions, with this luscious Gran Reserva named after its first plots, planted in the village of Bergasa.

At their modern cellars, they boast 10,000 French and American oak barrels, within which they age their finest wines – from Crianza to this exceptional Gran Reserva.

For this wine, they only age their finest grapes, all Tempranillo, ageing the wine at least a year in barrel and the rest of the time in bottle.

Despite its 7 years' age, it is still fairly youthful. Delicious drinking now, we recommend early opening and decanting to release all the flavours.

Next door to Rioja, Navarra has always been less traditional. Its winemakers were some of the first to break rank and grow non-traditional Spanish grapes. A daring move, but one celebrated now – Navarra Cabernet continues to impress.

This mellow 2017 comes from the 65-year-old Señoria de Sarria bodega, an estate highly regarded throughout the world which lies in Puente La Reina. The fruit that went into this wine usually goes into their flagship Reserva Especial, but winemaker Milagros Rodriguez put some aside to make this exciting blend.

Powerful Cabernet Sauvignon with silky old-vine Graciano, aged two years in barrel and another four years in bottle, this is a magnificent, mellow red, packed with dark fruits and sweet spice. It needs time to open up, so decant if you can, and then serve with your finest roast lamb.