For a great value rival to the wines of Provence, look to Bordeaux. Here, among the classic family estates and old vines, dry, elegant and fruit-filled rosé shines. Try this 2019 – brimful of strawberry, gooseberry and pink grapefruit flavours.
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Lying close to Margaux's Châteaux Giscours and du Tertre, Château Cazauviel remains surprisingly under the radar. It was inherited by Régis Bernaleau from his father in 1978 and today remains in family hands. It is situated on the prized gravel soils of the Arsac plateau, which lends both an intensity and a finesse to the wine. This pretty claret is from a vintage struck by early April frosts – the most devastating for many years.
It reduced yields, but as Decanter wrote, "there are some excellent wines." Most, like Cazauviel 2017, are not long keepers, but makes delightful drinking now. Ideally open a couple of hours before serving and decant. It'll make a delicious glass with roast chicken with morels or a mushroom croustade.
Château de Birot is an elegant, 17th-century property with vineyards perched on a high plateau looking down on the Garonne river and across to famous Sauternes. Until a few years ago, it belonged to the renowned Castéja family. They sold it and the new owners have been working hard, updating the estate. In the cellar, they discovered a forgotten batch of château wine from 2007.
Despite its 17 years’ age, it’s still tasting delicious, complex and long. It’s Merlot dominated from estate vineyards in the superior Premières Côtes, with a little of both Cabernets. After 17 years of maturing in the cellars, it has developed some sediment in bottle. A good sign. Stand the bottle upright for a few hours and carefully decant just before serving.
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Marie and Sylvie are two nature-obsessed sister winemakers. They aren't afraid of shaking up Bordeaux! Their aim was to make a richly layered, complex white. So, instead of taking grapes from just one vintage, they've blended them from three.
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Ludovic Roussillon is one of the top viticulteurs in Bordeaux’s Entre-Deux-Mers. He knows how to coax the very best out of his soils to get the most flavour in his grapes. Work hard in the vineyard and the wine almost makes itself, he says. We’ve worked with Ludovic for a number of years, enjoying both his red and his white from Château Le Coin. This is another wine from his vineyards – mostly Merlot, with a little Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon – all vinified to bring out the fruit richness, supported by sleek tannins.
Rethink Bordeaux with this supple, generously fruity, rounded red. It’s already drinking really well, with or without food. Roast beef, full flavoured pasta dishes, charcuterie, cheese – this wine is very versatile.
Castillon is a tucked-away Right Bank Bordeaux appellation that, for too long, has lived in the shadow of its famous neighbour, Saint-Emilion. The two regions share the same soils, grapes and climate and the best Castillon wines certainly stand scrutiny next to the Grands Crus of the famous one. The upside is that claret lovers can still find Castillon wines at exceptionally good prices.
Château Joanin came into the Bécot family in 2001. It has the highest vineyards in all Castillon, in the lieu-dit of Joanin. Juliette Bécot is today in charge and, with the renowned Bordeaux winemaker Thomas Duclos as consultant, it’s clear they are aiming high. Merlot with Cabernet Franc, aged 50% in new oak, this is a rich red. Open early and decant.
An exciting, pure and complex dry white that’s reshaping Sauternes’s winemaking history. It's a daring pairing of Grand Cru Classé winemaking skills and the fine terroirs of Sauternes, home to France’s finest sweet wines. Owner, Olivier Bernard, believed that the region’s amazing panoply of soils could also make top quality dry Sémillon. In 2011, he set out to prove it.
He brought in the team from the Graves' Grand Cru Classé Domaine de Chevalier, to help achieve his vision. Using intense, old-vine Sémillon from three terroirs, and a dash of Sauvignon, this cuvée was aged for six months on its fine lees, with 25% in new oak. Together they add layers of complexity and creamy weighty. A masterpiece of luscious fruit, spice and freshness.
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