Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and delicious. Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome.
But with most shut in 2020, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red. And again, the following year. On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes.
From these they make a small range of award-winning wines. No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei comes into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.
A silky, smooth, easy red.
From a fourth-generation-owned Pauillac cellar, B de Fonbadet may fall under the humble Bordeaux label, but it’s intensity and complexity leave no doubt about its high-end quality. This 2019 has even won the Decanter’s esteemed Platinum medal.
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The Manzanos brothers make a range of customer favourite Riojas at their family estate. Then just over the border, into Navarra, they also own vineyards and there make this bright fruit red. All Tempranillo, it is silky with deep berry flavour.
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For lovers of big, smooth reds, El Bombero is a top choice. It comes from Cariñena, a hot, arid region of Spain where sun-loving grapes like Garnacha (same as Châteauneuf’s Grenache) achieve amazing ripeness. Ancient vines, hot summers and a lack of rain mean fewer grapes, which in turn means superb flavour intensity. Hence mouthfilling El Bombero. There are no fancy châteaux around Cariñena, but, as Decanter magazine notes, that doesn’t stop it from being home to some of the best-value reds in the world.
From award-winning winemaker Javier Domeque, El Bombero is packed with spicy black fruit power and a warm glow. Great on its own and a tasty choice for casseroles, full-flavoured pasta dishes, herby roast sausages and mash, and barbecues.
Big Red El Bombero has been a top choice with customers for over 20 years. And in special vintages, winemaker Javier Domeque crafts a sophisticated Gran Reserva version using the pick of the crop from his oldest vines. To qualify for Gran Reserva status, the wine is aged in oak for three years with further time in bottle prior to release. It’s made mostly from Garnacha, an important component of many full-bodied Spanish reds (and also of Châteauneuf-du-Pape), with a generous portion of juicy Tempranillo for added flavour. It's a touch more refined than El Bombero itself, but still full of rich berry flavour and with delicious spicy complexity from American oak. Drinking perfectly right now with roast lamb, game or a selection of tapas.
