Since their wines first appeared in 2004, Château Vartely has established itself as one of Moldova’s top wineries. The team controls 300 hectares of vines grown in ideal conditions and soils, very similar to the best of Bordeaux. Most are naturally organic too – winds blow hard and chase away any disease. Glowing online reviews every vintage prove that UK wine lovers have given this estate their backing. From grape harvesting to bottling, each step takes place under the watchful eye of Arcadie Fosnea, ‘Moldovan Winemaker of the Year 2014' and his deputy, Valentin Vrancean. Pristine, handpicked Pinot Grigio, cool fermented, the wine bursts forth with bright orchard fruit and zesty lemon notes. Ideal with lighter dishes or solo.
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For piercing, ultra-fresh Sauvignon, Elqui Valley is a top spot. It’s an extraordinary region in the north of Chile next to the Atacama desert. Thanks to snowmelt from the Andes and the wonders of irrigation, green and flourishing vineyards stand out in contrast to their lunar-like surroundings. Alta Tierra is from Viña Falernia, owned by cousins Aldo Olivier and Giorgio Flessati. They have 135 hectares of beautifully manicured vineyards and an ultra-modern cellar. In 2005 their first vintage won a Trophy and put Elqui on the map. This dazzling Sauvignon Blanc displays classic varietal character of elderflower and freshly mown grass with ripe melon and citrus fruit. Enjoy on its own or partner with spicy Asian dishes or fish.
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Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and delicious. Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome.
But with most shut in 2020, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red. And again, the following year. On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes.
From these they make a small range of award-winning wines. No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei comes into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.
A silky, smooth, easy red.
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From a fourth-generation-owned Pauillac cellar, B de Fonbadet may fall under the humble Bordeaux label, but it’s intensity and complexity leave no doubt about its high-end quality. This 2019 has even won the Decanter’s esteemed Platinum medal.
