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When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.
And are well-placed to source the best of its truly remarkable wines.
A brilliant taste of Portugal’s flagship red, this one comes from fourth-generation Leonor Freitas (who was named ‘Comendadora,’ the equivalent of a knighthood) by the Portuguese government for her services to the wine industry. As you can imagine, she certainly knows how to produce a very fine wine. Made with fruit from the family’s acclaimed Vinha do Fava vineyard (wines from this vineyard have won over 80 Gold medals), and long aged in oak, this excellent red is packed with rich bramble, spice, herb and mineral character on a velvety smooth finish.
With four Trophies and 80+ Golds, Château La Clarière is clear proof that Castillon wines can surpass those of Grand Cru St-Émilion. La Clarière deserves its title as “leading estate in Côtes de Castillon” (Decanter).
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Wine Advocate is emphatic in its praise for RedHeads winery: "Tour-de-force winemaking. Genius. Must be tasted to be believed." Esulé is a deep, dark seductive Cabernet Sauvignon enriched by aromatic Cabernet Franc, a worthy 90-pointer.
An elite red with all the pedigree of the world’s finest wines. Think the great reds of Bordeaux, but richer and denser – swirling with dark fruits and seductive spices. Flavours that linger well after you’ve put down the glass. So where’s this stunning red from? France? Italy? Spain? No, it’s Lebanon. Called “the wine world’s best-kept secret” by Master of Wine Tim Atkin, this country has been making fine wines for thousands of years.
Not to mention, Ixsir winery is one of Lebanon’s best. No surprise really, considering the legend who works for them. Hubert de Boüard is the winemaker behind Saint-Émilion’s £250-a-bottle Château Angélus. At a much kinder price this sophisticated, spicy red is a special treat that's hard to put down.
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This is one of those 'under-the-radar' regions I love to search out, home to the finest quality wines, but not so well-known. As Wine International says, "If it weren't for the [political] line dividing Castillon from Saint-Émilion, its wines would be twice the price. The hills are the same, the soil is the same, the exposure is the same." The estate has won over 150 awards, including the Paris Lauréat Prix d'Excellence – not once, but twice – and Decanter magazine calls it the "leading estate in the Côtes de Castillon". La Clarière is our flagship wine and absolutely no expense is spared. Low yields, careful hand-sorting, months ageing in the finest new French oak, and rigorous tasting ensure only the best parcels become La Clarière. Mostly Merlot, silky, elegant, and supple, with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon for structure, and slightly portioned Malbec and Cabernet Franc for balance. It's truly magnificent!
