Fronsac's fine Château Dalem perches high on a hill, surrounded by its 14 hectares of sloping vineyards. It's an historic estate, with records dating back to 1610, that stayed in the same family until 1955. Michel Rullier then took it over and today it's run with great success by his descendant, Brigitte Rullier-Loussert. Its vineyards are nearly all planted to Merlot, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, and tended with meticulous care.

As you can see from critics' scores (92 points from James Suckling and 94 from Vertedevin), it is an admired claret and one that ages very well too. Matured in French oak (50% new), it has structure and length, but above all an appealing fruity depth. Perfect with roast meat or wild mushroom risotto.

Our scout and buyer for the Languedoc-Roussillon is Mark Hoddy. He's always searching the region's vineyards, to check out the vintage and the finest parcels of grapes. This is an ace find Mark discovered first in 2019 via an old friend in Corbières. Close by is Domaine La Lirande, a small estate founded in 1912 by the grandfather, François, in the tiny village of Coulobres. Every year, the Syrah from the domaine's 8 hectares of 40-year-old vines stands out for quality. Just taste the richness of this seductive red. Ripe black fruit, velvety, with smoky liquorice and wild herb notes, it's young, so best with hearty dishes like pasta bake or at a barbecue.

Il Brutto comes from Puglia, home to wines with "undreamed-of character and potential" (Parker). The fruit comes from tiny plots of century-old Negroamaro and Primitivo vines – heirlooms handed down through generations.

These gnarled, twisted vines may be ugly ('brutto'), but they produce absolutely incredible grapes. Unfortunately, without a big budget to promote or make the wines, these amazing grapes were being sold off at a very low price. The growers were struggling, and property developers were circling. Those heirloom vineyards were very close to being sold off, the precious vines ripped up and bulldozed!

Angelo is a champion of the Puglia region, and he established his award-winning Cantine Due Palme cellar in the 1980s to help save the region's traditions and growers just like these ones. Recognising the quality of these old vines and their precious fruit, he enabled the vineyards to be saved. This sensational Double Gold, two-time 90pt (one from Italy's top critic Luca Maroni) Il Brutto Negroamaro Primitivo 2021 – a characteristically warming southern Italian red with a wealth of flavour.

"Attractive nose of bilberries, redcurrants, smoky and spicy notes and a touch of coffee. Full-bodied, lively and quite dense on the palate, restating its flamboyant flavors over a backdrop of well-judged oak" (Gilbert & Gaillard). One taste will transport you to southern Italy … you can almost feel the Italian sun. It's so good! Serve this treasured red with your finest roast meats or a platter of antipasti.

He’s been making this gloriously mature treasure exclusively for us for nearly 20 years, and only ever ships La Cantera when it’s been aged to smooth, mellow perfection. Javier works under the radar in Cariñena, where wine has been made for 2,000 years. But the region is overlooked in favour of world famous neighbour Rioja, so you enjoy superb value for money here (and, in the case of La Cantera, Rioja style quality). This is made from old vine Garnacha and Tempranillo and has rich, deep red berry flavours softened by years in barrel and bottle.