From a winery and winemaker that bring you Stones & Bones, one of our top-scoring Portuguese reds, this is a fabulous, one-off, premium release. It’s a red with two years’ maturity – delicious drinking now, but one with the richness, depth and structure for ageing, too.

It’s made by Vasco Martins at the fifth-generation family cellar, Casa Santos Lima, a terrific blend of 40% Syrah, with portions of Alicante, Touriga Nacional and Aragonez, all aged in French and American oak barriques, to lend layers of toasty vanilla spice to the dense black fruit. A sensational red with amazing depth of flavour. Best to open early and decant, if you can, so all the flavours open out. A great wine to serve with roast lamb, rich casseroles or at a barbecue.

When I came over the high pass south into the Agly Valley in the 70s, I was captivated by the ancient vines on steep, terraced hills, topped by high, ruined castles. It was wild 'unknown' territory. That's where bestselling Cabalié, made by the legendary Hervé Sabardeil, is from. Hervé buys grapes for Cabalié from many vineyards, but the best grapes came from two vineyards of 100-year-old vines on schist/granite soils. They are two of France's oldest vineyards, lying on steep, terraced hillsides. When Hervé learned the farmer was retiring, he bought those two vineyards – and thus we have the 'Grand Cru' Origine … the purest essence of Cabalié … made solely from those two vineyards. It's a nearly all dark, spiced Carignan, with a few rows of silky Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which add to the incredibly rich fruit and luscious texture.

Renowned French winemaker Gérard Bertrand makes his £40+ a bottle Corbières in craggy Boutenac. Just across a small country road is the village of Fabrezan and its equally amazing vineyards. It's where, in fact, Tony Laithwaite bought his first Corbières shipment back in 1971. Today young couple Amelie and Jean-Baptiste work tirelessly, in evenings and weekends (after their day jobs as consultant winemakers), tending their ancient vines and making their cru quality Corbières.

The vines were planted by J-B's great grandfather, a cellar built by his son, but more recently the grapes were all sold to the local coop. J-B and Amelie took over in 2007 and decided they could make something much better. This fabulous Grand Cru style is the result.