Golds and many high scores for this luxurious Premier Cru, pure Chardonnay Champagne – rich and long.
Paul Goerg is a leading independent Champagne house, as this Premier Cru testifies. Owned by eight grower families, it was voted by Le Guide Hachette as the top Champagne out of 100 tasted – above vintage Veuve Clicquot and equal to Krug. Goerg is named after a respected 19th century mayor of Vertus, located in the famous Côte des Blancs. Here, Chardonnay is king and an impressive 85% of it is classified as Premier Cru.
The elegance, finesse and purity of this variety is the hallmark of the Goerg style, enriched here with 40-50% reserve wine. The chalky soils of Vertus lend a rich, yet refreshingly mineral quality, while three years’ ageing adds considerably to the wine’s complexity. Superb for celebrations and lovely with oysters.
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Dubbed as the “Princess of Champagne” by the press, Virginie Tattinger worked alongside her father in the world-famous Tattinger Champagne empire for 21 years. But she left in 2006, now makes excellent Champagne in her own right.
Château de Birot is an elegant, 17th-century property with vineyards perched on a high plateau looking down on the Garonne river and across to famous Sauternes. Until a few years ago, it belonged to the renowned Castéja family. They sold it and the new owners have been working hard, updating the estate. In the cellar, they discovered a forgotten batch of château wine from 2007.
Despite its 17 years’ age, it’s still tasting delicious, complex and long. It’s Merlot dominated from estate vineyards in the superior Premières Côtes, with a little of both Cabernets. After 17 years of maturing in the cellars, it has developed some sediment in bottle. A good sign. Stand the bottle upright for a few hours and carefully decant just before serving.
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For a bright, fresh Bordeaux Sauvignon, you won't beat this eight-Golds 2020 from Jean Gueridon. It's old vines with meticulous care, that give it such intensity and freshness, with a light floral touch to the citrusy fruit.
Jean Gueridon is the proud owner and winemaker of Château Les Moutins in the beautiful rolling hills of Bordeaux's Entre-Deux-Mers. Jean bought the estate in 1995 and has been upping the quality every year since. On his extensive vineyards of clay and limestone, he grows mostly Sauvignon Blanc, with a touch of Sémillon, on vines that are mostly 40 years old.
No wonder, then, the concentration in the wine is so good. It certainly bowled over judges in eight competitions, winning Gold every time. With three months ageing on its lees, the wine has lovely texture and roundness, with a creamy note to the bright citrus and grassy fruit and lift of blossom. Chilled down, it's a cracker on its own, or with seafood or goat's cheese soufflé.
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Château Peybourdieu is exactly the type of small, under the radar property we love to champion. It also illustrates Robert Parker’s advice not to “overlook the so-called petits vins of Bordeaux – they frequently compete with wines selling for two or three times the price”. Winemaker Denis Cayé is the third generation of his family at the property and his years of experience are evident in this fine 2021 vintage. The estate lies just north of the Haut-Médoc, between the Atlantic and Gironde estuary, protected from strong winds by forest.
A classic Médoc blend of Cabernet and Merlot, it delivers blackcurrant, earthy and oaky hints with a liquorice and cigar box character. Open a few hours early and decant. It's excellent with roast meats.
Reuilly is a real gem for lovers of classic Loire Sauvignon. It offers the dazzling mineral finesse of nearby Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, but its wines come at a more affordable price. It's a bit of a rescue story, in fact. In the 1970s, its wines almost disappeared and the little that was produced was only enjoyed locally. Enter Claude Lafond – the saviour of Reuilly. He encouraged the planting of vines, established a shared winemaking facility for all Reuilly producers, and built an impressive, modern winery at Domaine Claude Lafond.
Now run by his daughter, Nathalie, the domaine is farmed organically and continues to go from strength to strength – just like Reuilly itself. La Raie is crisp and elegant. Ideal with goat's cheese.
A vibrant, fruity and fresh Sauvignon Blanc that’s worth getting excited over. Aussie Cleanskin range bears little on the label, but what’s in the bottle is top. The high altitude coolness of King Valley ensures a ripe, tropical, crisp white.
Top Soave is a revelation – it offers delicately nuanced fruit, creamy body and stony freshness that enable the wines to age gracefully. You find all this and more in this sensational white from local star winemaker Antonio Fattori. Wine Advocate says “his white Soave expressions are the true standouts”. He searches out Garganega grapes from the slopes of Monte Calvarina, the volcanic soils of which lend a bright minerality to the wine. Hand picking is as essential on these steep slopes as it is for quality, while lees stirring in old oak vats lends a creamy roundness and texture to this terrific wine. Delicate apricot with wild herb notes of sage make this an exciting white. Gently chill and serve with fine white meat or fish dishes.
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