Since 1980, Jacky Gilson has been a grower and winemaker in the tiny, forgotten Burgundy region of Saint-Bris. In fact, the appellation was only created in 2003. It lies just 10 miles west of Chablis and is the only one permitted to use Sauvignon Blanc in its wines. Jacky himself grows both Sauvignon and Aligoté in his 40 hectares of vines, specialising in tantalisingly fresh, pure, crisp whites.
Hard work in the vineyard and minimal intervention in the cellar makes for very pure fruit whites, big on aromatics and with a core of freshness. Aged on its lees for six months, it has roundness too. Chill and enjoy as an apéritif, with garlicky snails or grilled fish. And from such an exceptional vintage, there is no rush with this wine.
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Family owned since 1664, the Karp-Schreiber estate lies in the heart of the Mosel. This important region starts southwest of the ancient city of Trier and follows the river its named after through the Rhineland to Koblenz where the Mosel joins the Rhine. Dramatic, slate-covered slopes are the key to the region’s wine quality. Estate manager Alwin Karp and winemaker son Jobst Julius have 6 hectares of Riesling, cultivated on these steep slopes, including a patch of Grand Cru Juffer Sonnenuhr vines. As the vineyards are far too precarious for machinery, all the work is done by hand.
Dry Karp from the very good 2021 vintage is a Mosel classic – zesty, delicate floral notes and mineral freshness. Great solo or with seafood or Asian dishes.
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