Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and delicious. Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome.

But with most shut in 2020, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red. And again, the following year. On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes.

From these they make a small range of award-winning wines. No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei comes into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.

A silky, smooth, easy red.

The Chapoutier name is synonymous with some of the finest wines of the Rhône. The family founded an estate in the north of the region, in prized Hermitage, in 1808 and it has stayed in the family since. Michel Chapoutier took charge in the 1980s, introducing braille on his labels, single vineyard wines and meticulous biodynamic methods. His adventurous spirit made him look further afield for great estates and in 2000 he bought Bila-Haut in the Roussillon. Terroir is of the utmost importance to him and his wines must taste real!

This is a gloriously expressive red using Syrah, Grenache and Carignan from his rugged Roussillon vineyards. With silky black cherry, bramble fruit and spice, this is a top wine for roast meats or a rich cassoulet.

Lying close to Margaux's Châteaux Giscours and du Tertre, Château Cazauviel remains surprisingly under the radar. It was inherited by Régis Bernaleau from his father in 1978 and today remains in family hands. It is situated on the prized gravel soils of the Arsac plateau, which lends both an intensity and a finesse to the wine. This pretty claret is from a vintage struck by early April frosts – the most devastating for many years.

It reduced yields, but as Decanter wrote, "there are some excellent wines." Most, like Cazauviel 2017, are not long keepers, but makes delightful drinking now. Ideally open a couple of hours before serving and decant. It'll make a delicious glass with roast chicken with morels or a mushroom croustade.

For lovers of big, smooth reds, El Bombero is a top choice. It comes from Cariñena, a hot, arid region of Spain where sun-loving grapes like Garnacha (same as Châteauneuf’s Grenache) achieve amazing ripeness. Ancient vines, hot summers and a lack of rain mean fewer grapes, which in turn means superb flavour intensity. Hence mouthfilling El Bombero. There are no fancy châteaux around Cariñena, but, as Decanter magazine notes, that doesn’t stop it from being home to some of the best-value reds in the world.

From award-winning winemaker Javier Domeque, El Bombero is packed with spicy black fruit power and a warm glow. Great on its own and a tasty choice for casseroles, full-flavoured pasta dishes, herby roast sausages and mash, and barbecues.