Lush summer berry fruit abounds in this delightfully crisp rosé crafted at Noël Bougrier’s Loire cellar. It’s a classic blend of Cabernet Franc and Gamay, producing a pink with enticing, juicy, strawberry flavour and exhilarating freshness.
Best known in Beaujolais, Gamay also excels in the Loire, lending juicy strawberry notes, while Cabernet Franc is more raspberry and leafy. After a gentle crushing, the juice was drawn off the skins to ensure a pale pink hue and cool fermented to retain lovely summer berry notes.
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Take a minute to read the (literally thousands of) 5-star online reviews for Cabalié. This one is typical: “When my time comes to shuffle off this mortal coil, this is the wine I want in that final glass. It is simply, utterly, indescribably fantastic.” Its secret? It’s crafted by a master winemaker, Hervé Sabardeil, following the centuries-old style beloved of Roman centurions, who first made wine there. Raspberry-rich Grenache, with herby Syrah and Carignan, Cabalié has impressive concentration.
That’s due to the maturity of the vines, most well over 50 years old. The tiny berries they produce give Cabalié extraordinarily rich, ripe flavours. Boasting 8 Golds in as many vintages, this much-loved red is warming solo or with hearty dishes.
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Dubbed as the “Princess of Champagne” by the press, Virginie Tattinger worked alongside her father in the world-famous Tattinger Champagne empire for 21 years. But she left in 2006, now makes excellent Champagne in her own right.
Since he took over the family estate in 1990, he has also acquired sites in Languedoc, Roussillon, Provence, Alsace – and far afield in Oregon, Australia’s Heathcote and Portugal. Domaine de Bila-Haut is his prize in the Roussillon’s Latour de France.
Its rugged slopes include soils of gneiss, schist, chalk and limestone, lending richness, depth, power and finesse.
This white is made from Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Macabeu, with a little this vintage of Marsanne, Viognier and Roussanne for a more aromatic style.
Pure, unoaked and with white peach fruit, it pairs well with trout or chicken, but is great solo, too.
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Lying close to Margaux's Châteaux Giscours and du Tertre, Château Cazauviel remains surprisingly under the radar. It was inherited by Régis Bernaleau from his father in 1978 and today remains in family hands. It is situated on the prized gravel soils of the Arsac plateau, which lends both an intensity and a finesse to the wine. This pretty claret is from a vintage struck by early April frosts – the most devastating for many years.
It reduced yields, but as Decanter wrote, "there are some excellent wines." Most, like Cazauviel 2017, are not long keepers, but makes delightful drinking now. Ideally open a couple of hours before serving and decant. It'll make a delicious glass with roast chicken with morels or a mushroom croustade.
Fronsac's fine Château Dalem perches high on a hill, surrounded by its 14 hectares of sloping vineyards. It's an historic estate, with records dating back to 1610, that stayed in the same family until 1955. Michel Rullier then took it over and today it's run with great success by his descendant, Brigitte Rullier-Loussert. Its vineyards are nearly all planted to Merlot, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc, and tended with meticulous care.
As you can see from critics' scores (92 points from James Suckling and 94 from Vertedevin), it is an admired claret and one that ages very well too. Matured in French oak (50% new), it has structure and length, but above all an appealing fruity depth. Perfect with roast meat or wild mushroom risotto.
