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Today it is famous for breeding Lusitano dressage horses – and, of course, its very fine wine.
Lobo e Falcão Centenário Grande Reserva 2020 comes from José's secret tiny vineyard. It’s his ancient‘illegal’vineyard of 100-year-old – and even older – vines.‘Illegal’because the authorities argue that these old vines should not have the right to the Tejo denomination … simply because the vines are planted amidst equally ancient olive trees. But José refuses to stop making it. One taste will show you why! Just like the old days, the grapes are hand-picked and trodden by foot in the cellar's traditional old‘lagars’(stone troughs). Lavishly dense with velvety black fruits, dark chocolate and spice on a long, sumptuous finish, It’s absolutely spectacular
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Finding a parcel of 2010 claret nine years after this 5-Star vintage was a coup for our Buyer Jean-Marc Sauboua. Critic Michael Schuster described the wines of 2010 on release as “massively elegant, fresher, firmer, more tannic”, Suckling praised them for being “very precise, focused and fresh to taste”, “dangerously good” said Jancis Robinson MW.
Médoc wines that year proved particularly good value too. The 40 hectare estate Château Carcanieux has very gravelly soils, hence its original name Carcanieux Les Graves. This encourages superb concentration and ripeness in the wines. Cabernet with Merlot, and aged in barrel, this silky claret has a fine balance of fruit and maturity, with spice from the oak. Decant and serve with steak au poivre.
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We’ve championed Jean Charles Duran’s superb Un Vent de Folie for a decade. This is his Grand Cru version.
It uses Grenache and Carignan from his 100+ year old Maury Sec vines, and the wine is barrel aged. Powerful yet elegant, balanced and long.
With four Trophies and 80+ Golds, Château La Clarière is clear proof that Castillon wines can surpass those of Grand Cru St-Émilion. From the exceptional 2020 vintage, this rich, velvety claret, packed with fruit, deserves its five Golds.
This is one of those 'under-the-radar' regions I love to search out, home to the finest quality wines, but not so well-known. As Wine International says, "If it weren't for the [political] line dividing Castillon from Saint-Émilion, its wines would be twice the price. The hills are the same, the soil is the same, the exposure is the same." The estate has won over 150 awards, including the Paris Lauréat Prix d'Excellence – not once, but twice – and Decanter magazine calls it the "leading estate in the Côtes de Castillon". La Clarière is our flagship wine and absolutely no expense is spared. Low yields, careful hand-sorting, months ageing in the finest new French oak, and rigorous tasting ensure only the best parcels become La Clarière. Mostly Merlot, silky, elegant, and supple, with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon for structure, and slightly portioned Malbec and Cabernet Franc for balance. It's truly magnificent!
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