Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and delicious. Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome.

But with most shut in 2020, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red. And again, the following year. On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes.

From these they make a small range of award-winning wines. No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei comes into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.

A silky, smooth, easy red.

Big Red El Bombero has been a top choice with customers for over 20 years. And in special vintages, winemaker Javier Domeque crafts a sophisticated Gran Reserva version using the pick of the crop from his oldest vines. To qualify for Gran Reserva status, the wine is aged in oak for three years with further time in bottle prior to release. It’s made mostly from Garnacha, an important component of many full-bodied Spanish reds (and also of Châteauneuf-du-Pape), with a generous portion of juicy Tempranillo for added flavour. It's a touch more refined than El Bombero itself, but still full of rich berry flavour and with delicious spicy complexity from American oak. Drinking perfectly right now with roast lamb, game or a selection of tapas.

A fear of heights is a non-starter for those working in the vineyards of Vallée du Paradis. They perch perilously on the slopes below Peyrepertuse, an ancient Cathar fortress some 800m high in the Pyrenees. So collecting the intensely fruity, aromatic grapes is not for the faint-hearted. Luckily, winemaker Benjamin Andrieu is willing to put fear aside to tend them.

?The result is a really appealing red, with bright fruit and seductively spiced notes. Syrah brings ripe blackberry, herbs and liquorice notes, while juicy Grenache and peppery Carignan add even more depth and body. A top choice for those who love smooth, silky reds with the warmth of southern France. Great with grilled meats, pasta with pesto, aubergine bake or on its own.

Il Brutto comes from Puglia, home to wines with "undreamed-of character and potential" (Parker). The fruit comes from tiny plots of century-old Negroamaro and Primitivo vines – heirlooms handed down through generations.

These gnarled, twisted vines may be ugly ('brutto'), but they produce absolutely incredible grapes. Unfortunately, without a big budget to promote or make the wines, these amazing grapes were being sold off at a very low price. The growers were struggling, and property developers were circling. Those heirloom vineyards were very close to being sold off, the precious vines ripped up and bulldozed!

Angelo is a champion of the Puglia region, and he established his award-winning Cantine Due Palme cellar in the 1980s to help save the region's traditions and growers just like these ones. Recognising the quality of these old vines and their precious fruit, he enabled the vineyards to be saved. This sensational Double Gold, two-time 90pt (one from Italy's top critic Luca Maroni) Il Brutto Negroamaro Primitivo 2021 – a characteristically warming southern Italian red with a wealth of flavour.

"Attractive nose of bilberries, redcurrants, smoky and spicy notes and a touch of coffee. Full-bodied, lively and quite dense on the palate, restating its flamboyant flavors over a backdrop of well-judged oak" (Gilbert & Gaillard). One taste will transport you to southern Italy … you can almost feel the Italian sun. It's so good! Serve this treasured red with your finest roast meats or a platter of antipasti.

There are documents showing that wine was made at this beautiful property as early as 1172, when it belonged to Ermengarde, Countess of Narbonne. We don’t know the exact style and quality then, but today it is exemplary – Corbières at its sensuous best! The estate has been in the same family now since 1803 – seven generations of women and now Guillaume Allien, the eighth generation. Despite being in his final year as a medical student, Guillaume gave it all up to restore the family estate and learn winemaking.

He works with consultant Gilles Dejean to make this luscious, dark-fruited red, which speaks clearly of its stony soils, the herbal-scented garrigue and its Corbières provenance. A warming red that’s perfect for a rich casserole.