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Since 1980, Jacky Gilson has been a grower and winemaker in the tiny, forgotten Burgundy region of Saint-Bris. In fact, the appellation was only created in 2003. It lies just 10 miles west of Chablis and is the only one permitted to use Sauvignon Blanc in its wines. Jacky himself grows both Sauvignon and Aligoté in his 40 hectares of vines, specialising in tantalisingly fresh, pure, crisp whites.
Hard work in the vineyard and minimal intervention in the cellar makes for very pure fruit whites, big on aromatics and with a core of freshness. Aged on its lees for six months, it has roundness too. Chill and enjoy as an apéritif, with garlicky snails or grilled fish. And from such an exceptional vintage, there is no rush with this wine.
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Wine International magazine decreed, “the revival of Muscadet is coming from growers like Gadais”, a 4th-generation estate, run today by father and son, Christophe and Pierre-Henri Gadais. It was founded in 1952 by Louis Gadais – one of the first winemakers in Nantes to bottle his own wines (most was sold to merchants in bulk). La Grande Réserve du Moulin is their top cuvée, using the best bunches of Melon de Bourgogne (the only grape permitted in Muscadet) from their vineyards. It’s a fine white aged sur lie, meaning it’s left for months on its fine lees to add subtle creamy complexity to the floral apple and pear fruit. 2023 was an exceptional vintage for Muscadet, as grapes were picked during the September heatwave. An ace seafood white.
Dominio de Los Duques is crafted under the watchful eye of Don Vicente García, a man hugely respected by his winemaking colleagues in Valencia. When the Catalan growers fought to limit the name ‘Cava’ to their own sparkling wines, they offered to make an exception for him. But, instead of accepting, he chose to fight for the rights of other small growers in his region and won! Thanks to Vicente, Cava is now made in over 150 wine regions including his home town of Requena (one of the best), 40 miles from Valencia.
This fine sparkling wine was aged for 12 months to ensure richness and complexity. It has very small bubbles (a sign of quality), a refreshing stone fruit character and elegant floral notes. Serve chilled on its own or with tapas.
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Family owned since 1664, the Karp-Schreiber estate lies in the heart of the Mosel. This important region starts southwest of the ancient city of Trier and follows the river its named after through the Rhineland to Koblenz where the Mosel joins the Rhine. Dramatic, slate-covered slopes are the key to the region’s wine quality. Estate manager Alwin Karp and winemaker son Jobst Julius have 6 hectares of Riesling, cultivated on these steep slopes, including a patch of Grand Cru Juffer Sonnenuhr vines. As the vineyards are far too precarious for machinery, all the work is done by hand.
Dry Karp from the very good 2021 vintage is a Mosel classic – zesty, delicate floral notes and mineral freshness. Great solo or with seafood or Asian dishes.
This bright, fresh white is named after the Elephant Tree you see on the label. Adored by these great beasts for munching on, it is also cherished for its amazing ability to soak up carbon! Not even fast-growing bamboo can match it.
The wine was made by the talented Leon Esterhuizen at the sustainable, community-minded Journey's End winery. It was awarded 'Drinks Business Ethical Company of the Year 2021' and also in that same year, the 'Water Management Award' for the second time. It's owned by the Gabb family, instrumental in putting South Africa’s wine on millions of dinner tables around the world during the past 30 years. Chill down well, this white makes mouthwatering refreshment on its own, or with salads or lightly spiced dishes.
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Critic Tim Atkin declared, "For wine lovers, South Africa offers something special," while the Press Association wrote, "South African winemakers are producing an abundance of world-class wines". Excelsior Estate has been doing just that for 150 years, since its foundation in Robertson in 1870. It's still owned today by the De Wet family, with Freddie and his son Peter running the show. Their philosophy is that great wine is made in the vineyard, so they put much work into tending their vines.
Their Heritage Reserve wines use their finest grapes from the lowest yielding vines on the region's premium limestone soils, all to ensure intense flavour. Ripe, but with zesty freshness, this white is great with ginger-spiced pork or noodle soup.
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