Antonio Federici is a small, 3rd-generation cellar in Lazio, just south of Rome. As you'll taste here, its wines are both authentic and delicious. Normally, they only supply their meagre output to top restaurants in Rome.
But with most shut in 2020, we managed to gain a small allocation of this superb, cherry-scented red. And again, the following year. On fine limestone soils (the rocks of which were used to build some of Rome's most famous buildings) they grow some of Italy's most characterful native grapes.
From these they make a small range of award-winning wines. No doubt the skill of top Italian consultant Franco and Matteo Bernabei comes into play, as well as the commitment and passion of the family.
A silky, smooth, easy red.
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From a fourth-generation-owned Pauillac cellar, B de Fonbadet may fall under the humble Bordeaux label, but it’s intensity and complexity leave no doubt about its high-end quality. This 2019 has even won the Decanter’s esteemed Platinum medal.
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Château de Birot is an elegant, 17th-century property with vineyards perched on a high plateau looking down on the Garonne river and across to famous Sauternes. Until a few years ago, it belonged to the renowned Castéja family. They sold it and the new owners have been working hard, updating the estate. In the cellar, they discovered a forgotten batch of château wine from 2007.
Despite its 17 years’ age, it’s still tasting delicious, complex and long. It’s Merlot dominated from estate vineyards in the superior Premières Côtes, with a little of both Cabernets. After 17 years of maturing in the cellars, it has developed some sediment in bottle. A good sign. Stand the bottle upright for a few hours and carefully decant just before serving.
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Big Red El Bombero has been a top choice with customers for over 20 years. And in special vintages, winemaker Javier Domeque crafts a sophisticated Gran Reserva version using the pick of the crop from his oldest vines. To qualify for Gran Reserva status, the wine is aged in oak for three years with further time in bottle prior to release. It’s made mostly from Garnacha, an important component of many full-bodied Spanish reds (and also of Châteauneuf-du-Pape), with a generous portion of juicy Tempranillo for added flavour. It's a touch more refined than El Bombero itself, but still full of rich berry flavour and with delicious spicy complexity from American oak. Drinking perfectly right now with roast lamb, game or a selection of tapas.
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This irresistible black beauty is made from fabulously intense Shiraz and Grenache grapes grown on the craggy hillsides of France’s deep south – the Languedoc-Roussillon. Look up from the vines and you will see ruins of castles perching precariously on rocky peaks. This inhospitable landscape and these ancient strongholds were home to medieval Cathars who lived in awe of the evil god Rex Mundi (‘King of the World’).
He corrupted the faithful with promises of earthly pleasures and the forbidden delights of mortal flesh. But behind the wine is a very kind soul - Hervé Sabardeil, our ‘King of the Black Reds’. Don’t even try to resist the temptation of this red, just sip and enjoy its marriage of liquorice-scented Shiraz and luscious Grenache.
He’s been making this gloriously mature treasure exclusively for us for nearly 20 years, and only ever ships La Cantera when it’s been aged to smooth, mellow perfection. Javier works under the radar in Cariñena, where wine has been made for 2,000 years. But the region is overlooked in favour of world famous neighbour Rioja, so you enjoy superb value for money here (and, in the case of La Cantera, Rioja style quality). This is made from old vine Garnacha and Tempranillo and has rich, deep red berry flavours softened by years in barrel and bottle.