Wine International magazine decreed, “the revival of Muscadet is coming from growers like Gadais”, a 4th-generation estate, run today by father and son, Christophe and Pierre-Henri Gadais. It was founded in 1952 by Louis Gadais – one of the first winemakers in Nantes to bottle his own wines (most was sold to merchants in bulk). La Grande Réserve du Moulin is their top cuvée, using the best bunches of Melon de Bourgogne (the only grape permitted in Muscadet) from their vineyards. It’s a fine white aged sur lie, meaning it’s left for months on its fine lees to add subtle creamy complexity to the floral apple and pear fruit. 2023 was an exceptional vintage for Muscadet, as grapes were picked during the September heatwave. An ace seafood white.

Provence is synonymous with lavender fields, sunshine and delicate pink rosés many regard as the best in the world. Since the influx of millionaires and movie stars in recent decades, it’s also become one of the pricier regions of France. Yet, happily, we can still enjoy the trappings of the Côte d’Azur lifestyle with wines like Domaine Pontfract. It comes from a 20 hectare estate with chalky, stony soil and sunshine all summer long.

The prime ingredients of Provence rosé, Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan, love these conditions. Winemaker Marie Alejandro gives the grapes a gentle pressing to extract a delicate colour and delightful, strawberry scented aromas. Enjoy this pink on its own, or with olive tapenade or a fresh seafood platter.

If you enjoy quality wine and appreciate value, southern France has a lot to offer. There is a myriad of appellations and producers to get to know. And fewer rules to follow, so winemakers can be creative. We have been wending our way around villages and vineyards there since the late 1960s so we know where to look and have many invaluable connections.

Yannick Pons of Domaine Saint André has a beautiful estate, skirted by the Canal du Midi and the Roman road Via Domitia. It's not far from the famous Oppidum (hilltop town) d’Ensérune, which dates back some 3,000 years. This is prime Chardonnay country, producing lovely, pure, creamy peach fruit in this modern style white. It’s perfect on its own or with salads, fish dishes or roast chicken.